222 smd resistor

The germicidal lamp is designed to use ultraviolet light to destroy viruses and bacteria. However, not only can any ultraviolet light be used, but I came across an example of an advertisement that was advertised as having a germicidal effect, but some things were inappropriate.

I ordered a UV-C germicidal LED lamp on Amazon and received it a few days ago. From the very beginning, people felt suspicious: when using many different UV LEDs, I have learned how parasitic visible light from different UV ranges feel to the human eye. In addition, the suitable UV-C LED lens shown here is made of quartz glass. Compare this with the image I received from the top of the bulb, which has a soft plastic lens that may be opaque and degradable in the far ultraviolet range. The most important clue to the problem is the price. It is hard to imagine that a UV-C LED lamp with a wavelength of 253.7nm is made of more than 200 LEDs, in such a sturdy metal housing, it is only $62.99.

Despite the risk of unfairness, I decided to return the product. In my message, I bluffed that I measured the spectrum of the lamp with a spectrometer and its output was not in the UV-C range. The next day, I received a confirmation that the fraud was rewarded: The seller replied that they advertised the product based on the information provided by the supplier, and the wrong information was due to their insufficient knowledge of the product information.

Measured wavelength: It is not 253.7 nm as shown in the advertisement, but the peak is 394.3 nm and the dominant wavelength is 413.9 nm. It is not in the range of far ultraviolet C, but in the range of near ultraviolet A, which is of no use to destroying bacteria! The seller promised to remove the product from their store and kept the promise.

If you are considering buying UV-C LED lamps, maybe you should buy old-fashioned CFL germicidal lamps. I think viruses don't care much about new technologies.

You should probably deny that UV-C is quite dangerous, and you should protect yourself.

But this article is about fake UV-C, which is relatively safe. At least in terms of direct exposure: -D

That is half of the whole world. :)

I have a 1W laser diode that is completely safe for a while. (It may be static/poor handling.)

Can I sell you a lawn mower that is perfectly suitable for wearing slippers? Make sure not to cut your toes! Of course, if you open the hood and maybe remove some garbage from the carbohydrates, our guarantee will be invalid.

Obviously I know you are joking, but as someone who has used the lawnmower for many years, how does it actually make your feet stand up under the lawnmower when it runs?

Now, I can imagine all kinds of silly postures while holding down the throttle, but you must do all these silly postures purposefully. They will ask you to actually step your foot under the lawn mower. When used as expected, you are always behind the lawn mower, pushing it with your hand, and the lawn mower is safely 12" + from the bulldozer. Like I said, you seem to need to do something even Consider the matter of exit.

Hey, I used to have the pleasure of using an electric lawn mower. The safety interlock switch of this safety lawn mower has a catastrophic failure by short-circuiting itself in the closed position (not fail-safe, but dangerous).

->As long as the AC power supply is connected, the lawn mower is running, and the only way to "turn off" the lawn mower is to unplug it.

It turns out that the previous owner/user has let the lawn mower stay in the rain at least once, and the water rusted the spring + steel ball combination, keeping the switch in the "on" position.

The danger is not the direct blade.

Large rotating blade + gravel = high-speed projectile with toes level.

I know this happened twice. Two different people, separated by many years. Both pull the mower backwards (every time occasionally) and trip over things, hold the handle to relieve their fall (instinctively) pull the mower on foot

Heavyweight boxer Joe Frasier fell over with a lawn mower and drove to the hospital.

I once ran a lawn mower on my feet (it only ruined my army boots, no piglets were injured). I was in a short but steep descent, slipped, and the reflection of catching something caused me to pull the lawn mower to my feet. I immediately released the throttle/dead switch, but the inertia of the blades still made it spin long enough to damage my boots.

UVC is not safe for human skin/eyes. FAR-UVC (202nm-225nm) is safe and can also kill viruses.

This disclaimer can be placed where real UV-C lamps are sold. But basically, it's not even necessary here. I think the harm of UV-C is common sense. You also won't see a disclaimer on kitchen knives, which means don't stick them in your eyes (or any other body part).

You are a short-sighted assumption. It's silly to compare sharp blades with lights that look really cool when lit at the same level. Especially when there are other lamps that look very similar that are not dangerous. Put the UV-C lamp next to the lamp with bugs, and then randomly ask people on the street what the difference is...

In fact, even if they are not side by side, this is quite important. There are two insect control devices in my house, and there is a "swordfish" sterilizer on the stove. The UVA tube in the bug bottle opener is still coated inside the glass and "fluoresces" in the 400nm range. Swordfish’s UVC bulbs are transparent, and the light is the actual direct UVC produced by the gas in the tube. (All fluorescent tubes work in this way, and the coating on the glass determines the "color" of the light. UVC is very dangerous to the eyes. The WHO also warns against using UVC lamps for disinfection. At least it can cause skin irritation and at worst The situation is skin cancer.

Oh oh So, I ordered an insect and fly killer on eBay and compared the picture with what you wrote online. I am sure that the attached bulb is UVC. The good stuff failed after a few minutes. Replaced by ordinary fluorescent lamps and later LED lamps.

Knives are very old tools, and people are usually taught to use them safely when they are children. They are everywhere. Having six dozen different purposes is completely normal.

People waved burning lasers around... I think UVC warning may be needed.

"Someone is burning a laser... I think a UVC warning may be needed."

...In a distant galaxy.

The information is good, you should always know how to use any tool.

Yes, who doesn’t like that nursery rhyme...

Now you tell me...

There is a difference between tangible hazards and intangible hazards, the latter will affect you immediately-when you start hurting yourself with a knife, you will realize and stop before you suffer serious damage-those will be before you realize Things that can cause serious damage. This is why we have no warnings for knives or ovens, but for bleach, arc welders, etc.

That was my first thought. I just read an article about Hackaday about how to make your own sterilization room for STUFF instead of humans. My second thought is: what do they use in bug zapper?

Uh. "Zapper". electricity? Stunt problem?

I was thinking about the light used to attract them. You are right. Then there will be ultraviolet lights in the food service area. I will have to do some research. The trouble caused by the curious mind. Look! squirrel.

The problem with exterminators is that they attract beneficial insects that eat mosquitoes, but not mosquitoes. Therefore, it is counterproductive. But people have heard of ZAP and think they are effective.

Correct. We believe that many things are not the case.

It may be so, but I kill thousands of insects every night, so they completely cover the lights.

Just put a sticker on it that says "Do not look directly at the UV-C lamp".

I want to learn more about your article. I recently purchased a similar 60W AC100-2777V UV germicidal lamp.

…I am (or have been) interested in the same UVC lamp; please convey your findings and/or actions you have taken on it. …Very grateful.

If from 100V to 2.7kV: D, it is a pretty good power supply:

This is real. But is this also common sense here?

The knife is sharp. Laser blinds you. Acid will burn your skin. UV-C denatures DNA. Please take appropriate precautions.

I have a problem, I am creating my own file. I bought a 18-watt blue 464nm strobe light. It has been shown and recorded that adding strobe lights has an effect. I have been doing some tests, but I still need proof. I'm just a person. I know it includes distance. Any ideas. ?

Thanks Tim

Using an unprotected UV-C lamp can be dangerous because it can harm the eyes and cause skin cancer.

UV-C light destroys the DNA/RNA of the cells, which is the way to kill bacteria.

All gadgets with unprotected LEDs are scams.

In the best case, they will be UV-A, which is not dangerous.

When buying 1K in bulk, the price of a single 30-50mW UV-C LED is $10-$15, so the price should be the first warning.

Similarly, the efficiency of these LEDs is 5%, so the power consumption of a 50mW LED is about 1W.

If a lamp with 200 UV-C LEDs is real, it will cost $2000-$3000 and use about 200W of power.

The efficiency is 5%, which is a very bad choice for mercury vapor discharge lamps. They are more efficient. How do you "protect" the bulb? If the bacteria on the surface are to be killed, the radiation must reach them. Therefore, the only meaningful protective measure is to leave the operating room.

UV-C lamps are used for water/air cleaning and are encapsulated in tubes where air or water flows around. UV-C is not good for surface cleaning, because it destroys plastics, rubber and textiles with the same effect as sunburn, but much faster. Yes, the efficiency of this tube is 25% and it is widely used. These LEDs have special uses in portable devices. You can cover them with water, place them on metal bottles and sterilize them for a few minutes.

Does UVC penetrate water or kill bugs floating near the surface?

My experience in using them very effectively to kill parasites and cyanobacteria in the aquarium shows that UV-C does not penetrate water, at least within the distance (about 2-3 cm) between the test tube and the edge of the UV sterilizer component no problem. , I think).

For the relevant personnel, the UV sterilizer is separate from the aquarium, and water is pumped into it, so the fish will never be exposed to UV rays in any way.

This is a common type:

In fact, the effectiveness of sterilizing (UV-C) light to sterilize N95 masks to extend their use time is widely known. In fact, the CDC has recommended the use of ultraviolet sterilization (UVGI) as an emergency measure. As you said, the limiting factor is that UV-C degrades the polymer, which ultimately leads to the failure of the structural integrity of the mask (Lindsley et al., 2015).

Okay, this is probably the most common application. And it is much safer than public use. Obviously, I was influenced by bigclive's youtube video and he got a (real Hg steam tube type) germicidal lamp. He showed that it only operated for a short period of time and emphasized its danger.

Has anyone used far ultraviolet LED experience? Some light sources on the Internet classify far ultraviolet as 222 nm, while others are even below 200 nm. All sources claim that low-wavelength far-ultraviolet LEDs cannot penetrate human skin or eyes, so they are less dangerous. Does this also apply to plastic, rubber, etc. surfaces?

Many sources claim that far-ultraviolet LEDs are more efficient in disinfection than UV-C. The latter confuses me, because longer wavelengths around 257 nm are generally considered to be the most effective for fluorescence, while wavelengths of 280 nm are most effective for LED light sources.

I use UVC in a wound care environment-it disinfects the surface of infected wounds very well-so I know a lot about this technology.

254nm is the most effective UVC wavelength to kill microorganisms. Far ultraviolet light is about 222nm, although not as good as killing microorganisms, it is considered safer. Far ultraviolet C is still under investigation and is not yet ready. 254nm UVC can hardly penetrate the skin, so much so that many experts believe that it cannot even penetrate the dead cell layer that makes up the surface of human skin. 222nm UVC is even worse when penetrating the skin-this is actually an advantage because it is safer than standard UVC. A recently completed study used genetically modified mice. The mice are so susceptible to ultraviolet light that they are exposed to direct sunlight for only a short while, causing them to develop skin cancer. These rats were exposed to extended 222nm light without any problems. Encouraging results!

Think of it this way: UVA (in the sun) penetrates all the way to the lowest layer of the skin and can cause sunburn under sufficient exposure. UVB (also in the sun) will enter the dermis, although the depth is not as deep as UVA, but it will also cause damage to human cells. The UVC at 254nm can hardly penetrate the top layer of the skin, while the far UVC at 222nm is only a surface effect. It can still reach inside bacteria or viruses to destroy their DNA/RNA, because bacteria and viruses are very small-only a few microns in size-so DNA/RNA has nothing to hide.

Some free chicken – if you get a UV bulb that emits a lot of light below 200nm, it will produce some ozone, which can cause lung irritation. Some people want to use it as a "deodorant" effect, but it is usually undesirable. Generally, a clean bulb that emits most of the light above 200nm is safer.

Hope it helps!

I have tested these lamps with American Ultraviolet's UVC dose indicator card and the card did not change color after 30 minutes of exposure. Using real UV-C lamps, these cards will change color in seconds to minutes depending on the wattage of the bulb. In contrast, my real 14-watt UV-C bulb changed the color of these cards in 15 seconds. I also tested these cards with my UV-C 35w lamp, and it changed color within a few seconds of being close to the light and within a few minutes of a few feet away. This is not a real UV-C lamp.

Hi Todd, you really need a higher wattage to play the distance effectively. What do you think is needed to cover 200 square feet of room

I have been trying UVC LEDs because you said they are not efficient and consume a lot of power. They also generate a lot of heat. Many manufacturers provide aluminum substrate PCBs for UVC/UVB LEDs to dissipate the heat generated. You cannot install many UVC LEDs together in a corncob tube without significant heat dissipation.

Far ultraviolet is a wavelength that has been studied, and all signs indicate that it is safe for the human body. But many people think UV-C can. It's not. The far ultraviolet wavelength is (207-222 nm). This is an article discussing it:

The problem is that the UV-C emitter will never only radiate at 207-222 nm

"...In such a strong metal enclosure"

Maybe you should use a lamp to clean up bacteria.

That is the only feasible way. Unless the weather becomes hot enough to kill them.

To be fair, most people who are currently buying UV-C lamps do not fully understand how to use them safely, because exposure to UV-C can cause short-term or permanent damage to the eyes (trachoma, potato eyes/welder flash) and skin Exposure can cause rapid sunburn and skin cancer. UV-C breaks double carbon bonds at the molecular level, so any organic (live or dead-animals, plants, paper, clothes, etc.) or synthetic (paint, plastic) will be permanently destroyed. I think that if the UV-C light source is used incorrectly, the damage they try to protect themselves will be far greater than the chance of death from COVID-19. At this exact point in time, I actually prefer to let people who don't understand what they buy to sell the wrong product, rather than let them add unnecessary pressure to the medical system in this crisis.

My personal damage to short-term/long-term exposure to UV-C is similar to that caused by soft X-rays, but unlike X-ray damage, it is limited to molecules with double carbon bonds, and is limited to exposed surfaces ( Can not penetrate deeply beyond the surface).

No, UV-C is not specific for double carbon bonds, it can break many molecular bonds.

"Ultraviolet rays can dissociate relatively strong bonds, such as the dioxygen (O = O) bond in molecular oxygen (O2) and the double C = O bond in carbon dioxide (CO2); ultraviolet light can also dissociate relatively strong bonds from compounds such as methyl chloride ( CH3Cl)) remove the chlorine atom."

To be precise, it depends on the matching of energy, and yes, photolysis is not only applicable to certain double-carbon bonds found in DNA. But carbon bonds are most directly applicable to human flesh.

UV-C has a wavelength of 280nm to 100nm, so in theory it can break any bond with a bond energy of about 427 to 1200 kJ/mol.

But the actual situation is that for a typical quartz mercury UV-C lamp, there are two main peaks in the UV-C range.

It has a peak from 200nm (600kJ/mol) to 160nm (750kJ/mol), with the largest peak near 183 nm (655 kJ/mol), and a larger second peak from 260 nm (462kJ/mol) ) To 230nm (521kJ/mol). ) Reached a peak near 252 nm (476kJ/mol).

Therefore, any bond at that bond energy can be broken,

E.g

C = C 602 kJ/mol

C = N 615 kJ/mol

O = O 494 kJ/mol

It’s crazy, maybe they just follow Monty Python’s "Architect’s Sketch" (

).

Can anyone explain to me why you want to buy a 4k UV-C LED bulb instead of the pl variant for 12 yuan on earth? This sounds ridiculous. The PL tube version is very efficient and is a common type of aquarium. Seems a waste of money

Is there actually a source of UVC in the millions of mobile phone disinfectants sold? zero!

I think at least some of the UV rays are weak (if UV rays are not included, it is still dangerous).

Mobile phone disinfectant?

Did Douglas Adams not mention those in HHGTTG?

I think that is just memory of the game.

Is this UV even safe for the display itself (OLED, LCD material)?

In fact, my experience with UV lamps is usually bad. They cannot eliminate UV Eproms in the 365nM range, and cannot replace CFLs to replace mosquito killers in other close ranges... Therefore, so far, there is no chance to replace old CFL lamps with more durable (maybe) technologies.

Elliot encountered the same problem, namely unable to erase EPROM. He finally tried a tanning lamp and ran into even greater trouble for it:

ew! For a while, I thought that "big problem on his hands" meant melanoma!

Everything is fine here! There is a small fire in the basement, but this is why there is no carpet in the workshop. :)

The solution is to use a $15 EPROM eraser and wait patiently for shipping. With real germicidal UVC bulbs.

Look for "3W Ultraviolet Bulb E17" in suspicious locations commonly seen in the west. Costing $2, this is a real UVC. I checked it with a spectroscope.

It looks a bit like a refrigerator bulb. It would be cool to break into the refrigerator from time to time for UV-C cycles, so groceries can be kept longer. There is already a door switch, so if someone opens the refrigerator during the cycle, you can automatically turn it off...

These are not ordinary light bulbs and cannot be operated directly with AC or DC power. These are gas discharge lamps, just like fluorescent tubes. They must be ballasted or they will pop out the first time the power is applied. I use these exact bulbs in my homemade UVC eprom eraser. The way I drive them is to use a 120v to 24v 400ma AC transformer. Then, I have a 41 ohm resistor, and two 82 ohm 5-watt ceramic resistors in parallel. This provides the bulb with the voltage required to reach tens of volts. Once it is broken down by the arc, the voltage will drop to the bulb's 10v working voltage.

One of the bulbs will eliminate static electricity in about 5 minutes.

If you look at one of these bulbs at first glance, they look like ordinary incandescent bulbs. They work in such a way that when they cool, the filament emits light to emit ions. Then, when the bulb touches the arc through the tip, the resistance of the arc is lower than that of the filament, so the filament is mostly out of the circuit. If you see that one of these bulbs is activated (with proper eye protection), you will see that it is working. The filament glows for a second or two, and once the arc hits, the filament goes out.

These bulbs will run on AC or DC power, but you really should use AC power. When using DC, you will only see the glow on one side of the tube. I don't know if it is harmful to them, but it is almost certain that the output of UVC will be reduced by half.

Did you know that an agent full of EPROMS can be used to measure UV exposure time/intensity to determine how good the sterilization effect is?

It will tell you that the bulb is not doing what you expected. But this is not a reliable indicator.

The erased EPROMS contains one (0xF​​F). So it doesn't help. At least your test EPROM needs to contain zeros. But you must compare the dose required to erase EPROM with the dose required to eradicate the virus (or other pathogens under consideration). I think there are better sensors.

Does the random technical product advertised on Amazon do not match the description? I'm sure this never happened.

This is the real clue of the fake: 275nm led light-emitting diodes are priced at $18 each and $10 per thousand in wholesale quantities. (Mouser) Therefore, a lamp with 200 lamps will cost at least a few cents.

CFL-type UVC lamps are available on Ali at prices ranging from 8 to 40 watts for $10 to $30. The United States and surprisingly (supposedly) have stocks. A few days ago, I ordered a couple and received a shipping notice within 24 hours.

The correct solution * example.

*The economy becomes part of

I think the seller of these items must be locked in a room with Covid-19 aerosol and a lamp.

This is not one of the common frauds in China, which may cause many deaths.

The analogy is a disinfectant gel, a rag or a liquid without any actual disinfectant.

This is not a simple fraud, this is a case of manslaughter

And, has the store on Amazon continue to exclude the device from its store?

After a quick search for "UV-C germicidal LED lamp" on Amazon, the number of clicks for lamps with a price in the range of $50-$100USD increased greatly.

If the Amazons think there is no need to do something about it, then all we can do is continue to spread the information.

The lid on the LED shown is almost certainly not clear glass, but fused silica.

If you study the UV-related documents related to 380-400nm, you will find that 300nm has the highest virus clearance rate in the solar spectrum at 21-55 minutes @ .05-.8 Joule/W/cm2, while on the ground Yes, and the working principle of 400nm takes only x times the time, and virus inactivation at 1-4 watts or 400nm per square centimeter requires 1-8 hours. Instead of 10 ms @ .004J/cm2 at 253nm. If you want to eliminate it immediately, use uvc. UVA will also inactivate the virus strain. So yes, the light source can inactivate the virus, but it must be all day, if not 24 hours a day, then you will need more than one. Enough viruses will be deactivated so that the remaining viral load is low enough that the human body cannot handle it. The best frequency range of ultraviolet light is 210-222nm. Its wavelength is very short and will not penetrate the skin or eyes. 400nm is also considered safe. But for different reasons.

Therefore, while waiting for this kind of bulb to sterilize food, you will be infected about 4 times as much, haha. Therefore, technically speaking, if they cancel the wavelength range in the advertisement and just advertise it as a bactericidal uv lamp, will they be covered?

Thank you. I also bought one of them... I thought the price was too high, but it didn't slow me down. Where can I buy those flip-flop-friendly lawn mowers? What about my new paperweight?

Although these bulbs are not "fungicides", if you happen to be lying with a pile of black light posters, they are an important source of UV-A. ? Also a great UV lamp for your insect repellent. The ultraviolet rays should be bright enough to bring them in from the next county. ??

The lamp you want looks like a rectangular-wound CFL, but it's clear. The power we have is 15W or 25W, and they can be screwed into ordinary E26 lamp holders. Ozone will emit a noticeable smell after being turned on for a few seconds, telling you if you are releasing a lot of UVC. These are useful for many things. I put an inverter on an inverter, and the inverter is run by a timer for a few minutes every day in a solar house in the woods. It destroys mold and seems to disturb bugs and small animals. When I opened in summer, this place smelled fresh and delicious.

UV lamps based on mercury vapor emit intensely at two UV wavelengths: 253.7 nm (UV-C) and 185 nm (so-called Vacuum-UV or VUV). The latter wavelength produces the ozone you smell.

Some mercury-based UV-C lamps now have a coating on the quartz shell that can block 185 nm and allow other coatings to pass through. You have an uncoated version. Ozone is toxic, so I hope you dry it before taking up the space. On the other hand, ozone penetrates areas that light cannot reach. This combination is more effective than any one, so it is a two-edged sword. the best! Reply

On the bright side, if you or anyone you know owns a resin 3D printer, then this wavelength is very close to the correct wavelength for building a post-curing box. I can’t find a useful data sheet on how wide the useful bandwidth of the 405nm nominal resin is for curing, but I took the liberty to guess that the bulb will emit most of the useful light in the correct part of the spectrum.

If your budget-conscious 3D printing technology can find use in your home laser label arena, or start a crazy carnival, then the possibilities are endless!

I want to ask if there are other uses for this, and then try to return it, but you answered, so they may still have a market for these products without having to lie to people.

You're really great! Originality, attention to detail and documentation!

Confession, I know very little about it.

Quick question, is there a way to change the wavelength of the bulb? That is to change it from 254 to 222 (far ultraviolet)

Your question in the visible spectrum is whether there is some way to convert red photons (625-740 nm; 1.65-2.00 eV) into shorter wavelength high-energy orange photons (590-625 nm; 2.00-2.10 eV). The only way I can think of to change the frequency is to accelerate the light source to close to the speed of light and move it towards you (Doppler blue shift). However, using only different elements (and you don't need as much space), it emits and absorbs in the correct part of the spectrum, which is more energy efficient. I might suggest using the same/more dangerous deuterium lamp (the emission wavelength is about 190 nm to 400 nm-look for "deuterium emission spectrum" in the browser of your choice and compare it with "low pressure mercury emission spectrum" Compare).

What I want to ask is, if you don’t take proper security measures to protect yourself, don’t blame me. If you can’t sleep for weeks because the inside of your eyes feels like sandpaper, it’s not my fault. If you have skin cancer, it is not my fault.

Thank you for your reply to the truth. I apologize for not putting in the nano unit.

To clarify, I hope there is a way to convert the light source to 222 nm light.

But isn't the deuterium lamp used for high beam technology? My understanding is that this is Russian technology. They use lighted filters to focus on the 207-222 series.

I also bought one at a high price early on. I contacted the seller through Amazon and requested a return. I received a full refund the next day. No instructions were given for returning the unit; therefore, either it is too expensive to afford (in part) the return shipping cost-then how will they use this (now useless) kit?

I think this will be a lot of face in this industry in China. Considering the timing of this, people may risk their lives to trust the placebo product; that is a crime.

Finally, I want to know how much this big mistake (tm) will cost? From design to manufacturing to middleman. Everyone loses investment. Or maybe it has always been well known and was originally a scam, just to get as much "rube" money as possible, hold it as much as possible, and return only what they were forced to provide.

Everything looks terrible. I am glad to announce this news as a show of hope.

Interestingly, the bulb even shows a "germicidal lamp" on the right side of the base. But the data sheet shows the UVA spectrum, and regardless of whether it has a certain sterilization ability, it is not part of the UV spectrum commonly referred to as sterilization. For many people who have purchased these products, I feel very frustrated, thinking that they will disinfect the bedroom or living room within an hour or two, which may take several days without taking up space without interruption. To use.

I'm glad you got confirmation from the seller that their "UVC" "germicidal lamp" is indeed not as good as the advertisement. I'm not surprised, they just refunded your money because it was easier to do so and keep other bulbs on sale. I hope that a new, suspiciously similar list will appear soon, selling the same bulbs or slightly changing part numbers, etc.

Unshielded UVC lamps should not be sold to consumers without education about the dangers and dosages of a large number of inactivated microorganisms.

Thank you very much for testing this and publishing the results! And thank you to anyone who sent me the link on my Amazn question. After seeing the posts there that someone had tested them but they were not properly read, I tried to cancel my order a few days ago, and the seller responded by sending my package the next day, thank you. I want to see if anyone can do the test, but it is not necessary now.

If anyone has time to have some questions. UVC fish tank bulbs and some equipment sold are advertised at 254nm. Some countries also claim that they also release ozone. Some say no, but commentators pointed out that they smelled ozone. After treating the room with a 254nm bulb, is there any adverse effects on breathing air? Do the bulbs they make emit 180nm and 254 ranges? Should we be tired of the light bulb advertised on 254 that also produces ozone-generating range?

Some people claim that the far UVC frequencies indicate that they are the first to separate them, discover their usefulness, and produce products based on them. They published a response in an article the previous week, stating that a university has done a lot of research on safety and is cooperating with foreign competitors if they produce products (which they already own) will protect their patents. I guess this means prosecuting. I didn't make this story interest anyone, but to me, it seems very important, considering its benefits in epidemics and the safety hazards of people throwing uvc bulbs. In addition, I think that strict mercury import laws have been implemented in the past ten years.

I think amateurs will be able to advance technology faster than a few companies and universities. What are the obstacles to manufacturing LEDs in the 207-222 nm range, is it even possible?

Amazon is crowded with these fake LED "insect" lamps for sale and their LED variants. Some people even claim that the ozone produced by their LED bulbs needs to have a shorter wavelength in the "vacuum-UV" region below 200 nm (in terms of wavelength, vacuum uv is between UV-C and soft X-rays), which is completely beyond The range of any LED can emit (for experimental aluminum nitride devices, the current record is 210 nm).

Commercially available UV-C LEDs are extremely expensive-more than $500 per LED, and have very low power, usually less than 1 mW.

So, frankly, some people claim that their $60 LED bulb has sterilization capabilities.

The quotation is the price of 255 nm LED from Roithner-Laser, Austria. The 275 nm CEL LED mentioned in OP has been listed on DigiKey's website. The bulk purchase price of a model that is still in stock is $127.40. As a general rule for UV LEDs, the unit price increases exponentially as the wavelength decreases, and the radiant power decreases with the expected component life.

Are these things like making white LEDs for computer screens?

Some research tests have shown that 405nm can kill Salmonella and E. coli.

A company uses 405nm in its "occupant safety" hospital lights.

It’s not that the seller will misunderstand the wavelength

A blue LED used in combination with a yellow phosphor to generate white light generally has a wavelength of about 460 nm.

How about Philips, Osram, and Sankyo Electric?

There is a difference between GERMicidal and VIRUcidal. In these crazy days, I think it's easy for laymen to get confused. Technically speaking, hand sanitizer is just a disinfectant. It takes many years to obtain a killing claim approved by a US government agency. Therefore, even if ethanol can kill the virus (even under the influence of sunlight and time), no one will spend money to obtain a killing claim. It takes two minutes for a competitor to "blink an eye", that is, their formula is the same (as in most cases), so it is essentially the same. . . Hand sanitizer in this picture

Big thread. I was about to fall down this rabbit hole.

I am interested in pulse germicidal lamps, about 20hz. Simple square wave switch. Does anyone have an idea about this?

I might pay $$ for low-efficiency real UVC LEDs, or I want to know whether the small 3w E12 lamp can effectively pulse with the right power supply. Does anyone have an idea?

Quartz low-pressure mercury UV-C lamps use the same technology as ordinary fluorescent lamps, but there is no special Er coating inside, which can convert UV into visible light, and quartz is used instead of glass, because glass will prevent the spread of UV.

So what you want to ask is whether you can generate 20 pulses per second on the arc inside the fluorescent lamp. When a fluorescent lamp is turned on, it consumes a lot of current because the initial arc is actually a short circuit and this is where the maximum power is used. Traditionally, electromagnetic ballasts (large inductors) limit the current to prevent the fuse from being blown. So if you flick it 20 times per second, it will consume a lot of power due to high inrush current.

To be honest, I don’t see the problem of pulsing the UVC light source. If you are looking for a lower intensity light, please choose a lower power lamp.

For a dance club, it would be cool to gate the fluorescent poster on the wall, but if you just want to reduce UV exposure, please turn it off as soon as possible.

This is the reason why you only insist on using proven and true CFL or linear UVC bulbs. There are far fewer scams in that space. Even non-ozone generators produce small amounts. Put the UVC bulb in a small room like a bathroom, then close the door and run it for 5 minutes. If it is a real UVC tube, you will be able to smell it. Without exposed bare chips or quartz glass windows, there would be no real UVC LEDs. The few real UVC led lights I have seen usually look like old-fashioned metal can LEDs with quartz glass windows on the ends. Exposure will absorb UVC and rapidly degrade from UVC. If you see an LED that claims to have UVC, and it's in a standard epoxy LED housing, it immediately becomes a scam.

I noticed that the light is very blue when lit, but I also noticed that white objects have a black light effect. Therefore, I conducted a banana oil test, put a label on it, and exposed it for 1 hour. 5 inches away. After an hour, the exposed area became significantly darker. Use a regular glass to do the same between the lamp and the banana for 1 hour. There is no darkening or color change in the area around the sticker (no difference). It smells, but there is no feeling after a thunderstorm.

This is a test report sent to me by a seller of the lamp to prove that the lamp produces UV-C.

As you can see, the test report shows that there is no UV-C.

The seller could not understand the report, or thought I could not understand the report.

I see many comments here about how dangerous UV-C is. The latest entry in the MedCram series on YouTube specifically covers this topic. When making such statements, the term "UV-C" is too broad. Specifically, it has been found that 200-222 nM UV-C is not dangerous to the skin or eyes, but is very effective against bacteria and viruses.

I am not saying that all general-purpose UV germicidal lamps are safe, but the fact is just the opposite. Not all UV-C lights will bring cancer to you and cause blindness when powered on.

If where can you find one of these "safe" lmk UV germicidal lamps. I should say whether they are in production and cost less than $4,000.

If this bulb does kill anything, then it may be the safest germicidal lamp. A laboratory test showed that a large number of ecoli in a petri dish was killed at 405nm at a wavelength of 15 mW/cm2 for 1 hour, but 5 mw had no effect within 2 hours. An Amazon reviewer said that the heat emitted was 3.2 megawatts per square centimeter

At least many Amazon ads with negative evidence have been deleted. The problem is that it has deleted the real information.

I posted the same document, Steve. I want to know if there is a hack that can reach 222 nanometers. There is a company that produces these items. My understanding is that they have a patent and are currently waiting for FDA approval.

Most UV-C germicidal lamps have a wavelength in the 250+ nm range, which is dangerous to humans (cataracts and skin cancer) and should only be used where there are no humans. 200-222 is safe, and many reliable scientific tests have been conducted on these pages. Amazon sellers (almost all sellers) omit the wavelength, and few offer 222nm lamps. Sellers on AliExpress and Alibaba have proved this, but in my dealings with these two companies, they usually don't know much about their products, so they think that ultraviolet light is ultraviolet light. Well, no. Yes, quartz glass is required, so LEDs are suspicious.

I confirmed what the others said. The "corn-type" LED UVC bulbs that are easily found on Amazon and Ebay are fake. I ordered 2 pieces from Amazon and 2 pieces from Ebay. They do not emit UVC or even UVA/UVB light. I confirm to use agar and cheek exchange first, and then use radiation dosimeter to point (

). Both methods confirm that the bulb is just a beautiful lamp, without the smell of ozone.

Someone should file a class action to ensure that these offensive companies stop the lawsuit. Apart from the stolen money, the real problem is that frontline clinicians believe they are items (phones, keys, personal PPE) disinfected at home after get off work and further infect their friends and family. This is too bad.

Class actions should be directed against eBay and Amazon to promote fraud. For eBay, I tried to inform its legal department that if someone relies on light instead of other sanitation methods, its convenience may lead to death.

I bought one of these corncob-style LEDs from eBay and disinfected my wife's scrub.

This is also false. There was no smell, but I didn't expect anything at the time.

I just bought some UVC dosimeter points and found out that the light is fake.

Stick to bulb-style UVC lamps. Make sure they emit an odor. If you are like me and are curious how to know how long to use, please buy a dosimeter online from a supplier in the US or Europe.

I will no longer buy Chinese craps. They lie and deceive you in crisis situations. Now how to figure out whether these Chinese masks really work?

Confirm that this 60 W germicidal bulb is fake (no UV radiation). I measured a 20w 20W mercury vapor bulb with a 200-800nm ​​spectrometer, and its spectral line was just above 250nm. Then, I measured this 60w germicidal bulb. It has a spectral peep point at 450nm and a saturation measurement at 500-550nm, but there is no light above the environment at less than 400nm. I will send the plots to ebay and Amazon to see if they can be banned.

Hello there

I bought a mobile phone UV sterilizer. Supper fakes make you laugh. Glowing plastic rods, not mercury bulbs!

Contacted Amazon. They said I will get a refund and they will investigate the issue. But I don't think they have changed anything.

It seems stupid. But all I can ask is to post a question under as many products as I can provide. I haven't started yet. Please tell me what you think and how to improve it. I don't mind taking the time to post questions. All I need to do is to make sure that I am issuing a true statement.

Thank you.

here is:

Hello there.

Are these devices equipped with mercury lamps? Because LED cannot effectively sterilize.

Only mercury lamps can produce light with a wavelength of 253.7 nm, which is most effective for microorganisms (such as viruses).

Now that you know, it may make you legally liable. Please study the principle of ultraviolet sterilization and carefully verify the equipment to avoid accidental injury to personnel. Your product is very strategic and important. If feasible, lives can be saved. If not, it needs life.

After studying, I bought these FAKE UVC lamps. I advertised on eBay and listed it as FAKE UVC LED Corn Frame Bulb.

I bought two of them...oh, sorry.... But my problem is that I put one in the room downstairs, closed the door and left it for half an hour. If it is fake, I believe that after reading the comments, why? Is there a strong smell...my wife smells it too...smells like bleach...I am 73 years old and a retired electrician from COPD, so I am worried about ozone, but it seems that after reading the comments Can't... any physical help? If these fumes are harmful, I don't want to use it as a "pretty" error of "$50"... Only used once... Does it just burn on the first use? Thanks for listening/reading...any ideas? ? ? ?

I don't know what is harmful, but I don't know any cheap LED that can afford UV-C. All the UV disinfection lamps I have seen look like fluorescent lamps.

I also doubt that if you are going to cover the entire room, you will successfully disinfect _anything_ within a reasonable time. In addition to walking inside under bright conditions and the danger of ultraviolet radiation from the eyes and skin, the important factor that kills viruses is the power per square inch of surface area. It is best to put the bulb in a small box to prevent exposure of the bulb and to absorb more ultraviolet rays on the object to be disinfected.

If the light bulb smells like something, I will worry.

It must be fake. The source of the odor may be the overheating of some electronic components in the lamp, especially if it is combined with inferior FR4 resin or phenolic resin used for printed circuit boards. The best option is to return the product (if possible) and order UV CFL lamps for less money.

thank you very much……. This is the most logical explanation so far. ...I am an electrician, and sometimes new electronic equipment emits an unpleasant smell at first. We call it "burning"...such as shellac in a transformer, etc...So if this smell disappears, do you think I can use it as a "pretty blue light" dialogue segment? By the way, there seems to be more on Amazon...I will do everything I can to prevent people from buying these pirated items...Thank you again and let me know if you think I can hype this thing or just throw it away...They don't Will get it back or refund

I want to read this book before I buy products from Amazon. After finding a legitimate video on youtube, I tried to return it yesterday. The seller still won't give me a full refund and hopes that I will ship the product to China. Better than opportunists! Thank you for providing the facts.

These are still all over Ebay in many different shapes and sizes, and are still in the Amazon region. Can you consider writing a new article describing how to distinguish between genuine uvc bulbs and counterfeit uvc bulbs? Only one UVC LED SMD will cost five to ten dollars.

After two inspections, I did a lot of research, a lot of research is based on this website, and a few things are obvious... If it's talking about LEDs and the price is less than $500, it must be fake... The banana test... works.... I ordered a bunch of things and I can return them so far, but today I received 2 folded wands, which look real...about $50 each...say UVC and 253.7nm, very good... . 3W bulbs are only suitable for small jobs, but if it’s really good,...have not done the banana test, then it will reply to you, but it must be all bulbs that look like corncobs with a whole LED Is false, almost all LED = false

I have never heard of the banana test. Thank you

I bought a UVC dosage card on eBay and found that some of the lamps can kill bacteria, while others cannot send the non-working lamps back to Amazon.

In this great and magnificent article, the most important thing is the original author of this article, and all here who really have UV-C dosimeters, spectrometers, etc., and really know this job professionally in the smartest way Personnel. What they can do here to other public readers is to at least give some examples of eBay and Amazon direct link suggestions, what UV product is the best choice, and it is definitely not a fake!

For example, can someone recommend to the US and EU markets to buy some real UV lamps on eBay and Amazon to disinfect rooms, basements that use molds to prevent moisture, and disinfect masks in this corona crisis?

Thank you and sincere regards! :)

I bought these "UV-C" LED 60W corncob lamps from eBay for £30, and soon suspected it was a fake. I let it be checked with a laboratory-quality UV-C instrument. At 5 cm, it produces almost no UV-C, and its measured value is 7 microwatts/cm². Approximately the same level as household cool white GU10 LED bulbs. Compare it with a 72-watt mercury vapor disinfection lamp; at 5 cm, the UV-C intensity is 7.17 milliwatts.

As early as a long time ago, eBay has been aware of these fakes, but eBay continues to encourage such fraud. I will see this type of action against eBay's class action.

Ebay continues to promote sales of FAKE UV-C lamps.

Last spring, I complained to BBB about eBay advertisements. The advertisement allowed false promotion of these advertisements. I encourage all those who were deceived to do the same. I could not pay for Amazon, but I did get a full refund from them, but this is not an excuse to continue selling these allowed. They can also cause fires. Now, there is more information on the Internet, and tests on "uvc" led products have been conducted on YouTube, but 6 months ago, there was little relevant information. They simultaneously sold millions of such types to American consumers. product.

I have a few uvc glass compact bulbs and they seem to work well. Kill the mold on the damp bathroom ceiling and keep it clean for several months. Unfortunately, they are not manufactured onshore, are often mislabeled (o2 or not), and still commit a lot of fraud on prices.

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We recently posted about

 Fortunately, it was discovered and extinguished before spreading to the hacker’s home or hurting his family. By analyzing the residue of the printer, the hacker determined that the fire was caused by the loose grub screw that dropped the heater box of the extruder and touched the ABS fan shroud. It went all out and caught fire.

Many of us have similar 3D printers, so the comments in this article are vivid, but understandable.

 By listing many best wiring methods, including the use of ferrules. In particular, many 3D printers connect the heating bed to the motherboard through screw terminals, and the heating bed consumes a lot of current. Although it is not the cause of the original fire, the molten terminal block is a common complaint in many DIY 3D printer kits. One of the reasons is that simply stuffing thick stranded wires into the screw terminals and hoping for the best results may lead to increased resistance And heat, in the joints. In this case, the absolutely correct approach is to compress the ferrule. So let's talk.

So, what is a ferrule? Generally, any type of strap or clamp used to fix, reinforce or fix objects to each other. This is a broad definition that covers everything from small shoes used to fasten the ends of shoelaces to preventing looseness, to strong metal clips used to connect steel cords together. However, in the field of electrical wiring, compared with the sealing gasket for purely mechanical applications, the sealing gasket has a more specific definition and its purpose is also very different.

The wire gland is a soft metal tube that is crimped to the end of the stranded wire to improve the connection characteristics of the wire. Most gaskets are made of copper, usually tin plated. The size of the ferrule is suitable for a specific specification of wire, whether it is diameter or length. However, the ferrule is not just a simple cylinder, it forms a lip or trumpet at one end, which can be used to collect and consolidate the strands of the wire and insert them into the ferrule.

The flare in most ferrules is not immediately visible because it is usually wrapped in a tapered plastic cable entry sleeve. The sleeve acts as a transition between the wire insulation and the ferrule itself, and also serves to tie all these loose bonds into the inner cavity of the ferrule. Unlike more traditional crimp connections, the plastic sleeve of the ferrule is not compressed during installation. It remains intact around the insulation and provides some degree of strain relief by moving the bend radius of the wire away from the end of the insulation after installation. The colors of most ferrule sleeves are marked with wire dimensions in accordance with DIN 46228. For the same cross-sectional area (in square millimeters), the sleeve has two confusing codes in French and German.

If it sounds like a metal ferrule is more like something European than something American, that's for good reason. In order to obtain CE certification, electrical equipment must be terminated with wires twisted into screw or spring terminals with ferrules. The United States does not have such regulations, so it is not common to use gaskets in American equipment. However, sealing gaskets have specific advantages that are hard to deny and are widely used due to their good engineering significance.

To understand its principle, please clamp a short piece of insulated stranded wire of any specification. Stranded wire is flexible, which is one of the reasons for vibration in mobile applications, rather than solid wire. However, because the insulating layer wraps the conductor's twisted wires, keeps them in close contact, and maintains the twisting or twisting of the separate twisted wires, it is still somewhat stiff. Now peel off a little insulation from one end. You will notice that in most cases the laying of the twisted wires is at least partially disturbed-they are slightly twisted. Strip more insulation, making the strands more and more separated. After stripping off all the insulating layers, the conductor will lose all structural integrity and split into multiple strands.

This is the basic problem that the bushing is trying to solve: after stripping the wire, they will maintain the tight bond of the stranded wire in the conductor and allow the connection to conduct its full rated current. If there is no ferrule, the bare strands compressed in the screw terminal tend to splay, thereby reducing the number of single strands that are firmly in contact with the terminal. The resistance of this type of terminal is much higher than that of a proper bushing connection.

However, the advantage of metal connections is not just to reduce resistance. Like other

, The strands inside the ferrule that are correctly applied will bear huge pressure, and will stretch axially and deform radially in the process. Stretching tends to destroy and replace surface oxidation on the strands, while radial compression tends to remove the voids between strands. These tend to make crimped connectors have better oxidation resistance than uncrimped wires, thereby extending the life of the connection.

So, is the sealing gasket the only way for family players? Overall, I would say yes. Ferrules have obvious advantages over ordinary stranded wires. In high-current applications, I will insist on using them with screw terminals or wherever it helps to reduce stress into the shield. In addition, they provide a clean, professional look to the project, so even if the application is not a critical application, I tend to include them in my multi-strand wire connections. Of course, it is not without the cost of repair tools, but if you can buy a kit with various protective sleeves and suitable ratchet crimping tools for $30, it is not bad.

Thanks to [NobodyInParticular] for proposing this story.

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Stranded wire is flexible, which is one of the reasons for vibration in mobile applications, rather than solid wire. "

And it can still be broken, it just takes longer. I believe it is also a softer copper.

Was there no link to your talk about organ wiring and using ferrules a few weeks ago? The video got me into trouble, and now I love them.

Can you provide some good suggestions for the tool?

Phoenix Contact is an excellent tool, including magazines (such as guns) pre-loaded with ferrules of various sizes that can be slid into the tool.

I checked and they are $900.00

Used Weidmuller PZ 4 can usually be purchased on eBay for around $30. High-quality tools with replaceable molds. Their wire diameter ranges from 12 to 21 AWG.

For most connectors, cheap crimping tools from china/ebay will provide you with excellent service.

– For Ferullas, a simple 4-prong is enough (technically 6-prong is better, but with 4-prong you will get a nice square shape, which allows you to insert a slightly larger wire into the PCB screw terminal) in AC installation It is better to use 6 jaws.

– Then, for the blade connector, get a kit with interchangeable jaws, such as Paron in China, you will get a crimping pliers with 4 jaws and a thin wire stripper in a good bag

– JST connectors – especially the small pitch connectors are a story in themselves, you need a narrow tool to do any suitable processing on them, such as Engineer 09 or JST's appropriate connectors, but their price is ($400 or more) )

-IDC (Insulation Displacement Connector) can be easily completed without tools. But you can get simple pliers with 2 flat surfaces to simplify the tool.

-The prices of most famous brand connector manufacturing tools are sky-high, but some tools are specially designed for connectors and are more affordable (TE Connectivity)

– When you do semi-serial production, if there are more than 50 parts, you also need to consider dirty cables, which is a service provided by dirty PCBs

And more explanation about popular connectors on this link

Always consider the type of material when designing the connection system (gold is not always the most suitable), and the voltage generated between the two metals may make the joint unsuitable for long-term installation

If you want to understand the basic principle of connector crimping, please check the hackaday article about it

Spoiler crimping = cold welding

If you want to really understand the details, then Wurth elektronik will provide a very good book

One thing to remember, don’t solder crimped connectors

Advantages: If you master all the above conditions, you can find a job in any major industry without any problems, and the correctly crimped connector also has a certain aesthetic

Knipex Ref 97 72180 pliers. I paid about 25 euros and used them to crimp about 300 cable ends. Next week I will spend a lot of time rewiring electronic devices in CNC routers. However, do not buy the cheapest gaskets, but buy brand gaskets (such as Schneider).

The pressmaster MCT frame and the correct plug-in stuff (mold). The frame is about $70, and the mold is $50 (given or accepted). By reading eevblog and trying, this is the best thing I have found. It can indeed use molex kk connectors and various other products, just purchase the appropriate mold inserts. Pressmaster has many sales names, so you can find it through photos, and then check the other names listed under it for you.

That is the framework (MCT series) I am referring to. Fei

Sorry, there is another link:

That's where its rebranding took place. Wiha has nothing to do with this, but the mark is big! It is best to avoid this; get any name you can find on that MCT that can save money. The molds are all the same, there is no brand on it, only the news director (as far as I can see; I have about 3 or 4 molds, which can meet all my needs).

The one I use at home is much cheaper, but it seems to be the same product sold by ferrulesdirect.com (the vendor we use where I work).

Be careful to use tools, especially crimping pliers. The low-resolution photos on your computer seem to be exactly the same, which may mean that these molds are crucial between the Amazon version and the molds sold by a well-known supplier. The mold is the most important part: if the mold is not properly designed and manufactured, you will not be able to rely on the quality of the crimping 100%, and you will not be able to achieve all the purposes of using ferrules.

If you don't want to carry many tools with you, Unior 514 and gedore 8133 are very suitable for fast crimping. In the workshop, it is best to have special tools. At work, we have gedore and knipex, which have performed well in the past 7 years.

What about the ends of tinned stranded wires? How does it compare to ferrules? It also eliminates oxidation and eliminates voids around the steel strands.

I have always known that this is not a good idea, because relatively speaking, solder actually has a high electrical resistance.

It can work, but no mechanical strain relief is the most important thing. I have seen too many tinned wire ends, and they break easily at the transition between the tinned part and the non-tinned part.

To make matters worse, the end of the solder plating provides stress points, making it easier to break

To make matters worse, the solder is malleable instead of elastic, so even if the screw is tightened, any mechanical deformation will cause the connection to become loose at the microscopic level.

National Aeronautics and Space Administration Technical Standards

Crimping, interconnecting cables, wiring harnesses and wiring

If I remember correctly, it will make the wire at the end of the solder more likely to break. As a result, you will get a nice and firm pen tip, but the wire will disconnect more quickly.

Yes, the solder will wick the core wire into the insulating part and become a weak point of fatigue.

The NASA soldering bible that appeared here a few months ago clearly stated that before the wire is insulated, the solder should not be wicked to around 1-2 mm. When the wire needs to be connected to the mowing, all you have to do is to use the Litze wire (just cheaper, not the individually insulated stranded wire type), because it is made up of hundreds of thin wires. Then, your wire is flexible enough and will not break.

By definition, Litz wire is a bundle of individually insulated wires. There is no "cheap version" without insulated wire, because it defeats the purpose of litz wire. You only need high strand count or "super flexible" wires. However, it has not done much for the weaknesses caused by welding.

In any case, this is not even the reason you should not solder wires in screw terminals. If so, as long as the wire is not bent or vibrated near the terminal. The problem is that solder can easily creep ("cold flow"). Over time, it deforms, the joint loses compression, then the connection loosens, everything that follows.

"When wires need to be connected to the mowing, what do you do..."

I didn't realize that NASA was involved in harvesting hay or mowing!

B ^)

not good. It creates a weak point immediately after the flux mass, and bending the cable too much can damage the cable at this precise point. Even if the cable is pulled by force, the sleeve (ferrule) with the plastic end is easier on the cable.

Do not tin-plat the ends of wires screwed into screw terminals.

Tin is not really solid, but it will deform over time. Therefore, connections that are tightened during installation will loosen over time.

Loose connection -> higher resistance -> higher temperature -> lower tin content -> looser connection...

You know what's going on ;)

In addition, tin will flow into the insulation and form hard spots far away from the terminal-if you are unlucky, this is where the single-stranded wire begins to break, causing invisible defects.

In addition to tin or traditional tin + lead mixtures that are too soft, the main problem is that tin will flow away from the screw "cold" due to thermal cycling and stress, and sooner or later will cause considerable contact resistance.

I heard that the third reason some people oppose soldering is that the solder is too soft and the screw connection will loosen over time.

Cold flow under pressure is the same reason that old aluminum power cords are so dangerous. Over time, the connection becomes loose, the resistance rises, and a poor connection can cause an arc.

I never like to find it on the spot. The solder is hard and smooth, so the terminal cannot be compressed and fixed on it like soft copper stranded wire. The ferrule crimping pliers make the serrations into a coil, so its grip is much better than solder.

High current is not helpful. The solder softens due to heating, and then the entire wire ends collapse.

Soldering is not a good idea. The solder will crack due to physical stress.

Tinned wires for screw terminals are a bad idea, because even at room temperature, the solder will shift slightly under pressure, and as the temperature cycles, the solder will flow out of the joint, thereby reducing the contact area and increasing The resistance is reduced, which generates heat, which leads to the positive feedback effect.

Compared with bare copper, tin plating is softer.

Therefore, the screws may be lost over time, faster than using ferrules or lugs.

I know that in Europe, stranded tin wire is usually used for tinning before many equipment fails or burns down. Now, crimping has become a problem.

Causes stress relief problems...usually it breaks completely at the end of the solder because it allows very sharp bends (solder wires are hard, non-solder wires are not...).

Tinning the ends of the stranded wires will make the parts of the wires after tinning brittle.

I never recommend soldering wires. Especially if there is vibration or even movement, your cable will break after a short time.

In the field, at a critical juncture, when there is no ferrule available, the current is lower, I know to fold the multi-strand wire back and push the entire batch into the cage screw terminal. This relieves the stress and prevents any stray whiskers. It has been proved to be successful for many years, but the contact area will be reduced, so it is not suitable for high current situations. The system was also unsuccessful on cored cables sold, sometimes resulting in intermittent connections.

Wow. Many replies (all said no), and many disagreements about the reasons.

Therefore, I will invest two cents.

do not.

The previous reasons apply, but there are other reasons. Except where the stress rises (the solder transitions to the stranded wire and cold flow) (the inherent resistance of the soldering end is lower than that of the base wire, but the contact resistance area is appropriate and the inability to maintain the pressure will cause heat), other important factors include some help The potential corrosive effects of flux, changes in the mechanical properties of the solder, and the diffusion alloy interface between the solder and copper due to initial crushing (which may include cracks), and the loss of fluidity and ductility due to flow. The firmness of the tin-plated end ( Compared to round solid wire or stranded wire...I can’t think of a better wording), and the potential long-term effects due to the environment (chemical) may be due to the different materials at the solder boundary and the cold working under the screw Physical/structural changes.

Now, the interesting thing is that you can properly use the old school welded in brass grommet and you may get 100 years or more of service. However, good luck found a source today, and the labor involved in installing these resources correctly is not worth it.

At the school I attended, the "old school" people did not use simple nicknames to instruct us: Before applying solder, the connection should be firmly fixed both electrically and mechanically, and the solder should not be relied on to carry current. Your proposal failed in three ways. The fourth point is unreliable, because simple tasks can be done at any time during the 100 years of the hyperbola.

The solder tends to flow away from the pressure point, causing the joint to loosen.

Therefore, welding before crimping or inserting crimp terminals is expressly prohibited in the Australian Wiring Rules.

In addition to the higher electrical resistance and the increased possibility of breakage at the ends of the tin-plated part, there is also a problem that the solder deforms over time under stress. Tin/lead has strange properties and can creep at any temperature. (See also No. 9 "L Delay" Pencil Detonator. A good force connection at the beginning may cause loose contact for a period of time, resulting in increased resistance and overheating. I have seen some reports that concluded that in reality The terminal is better than tinning because it is less likely to accidentally lose contact.

The solder is very soft, so over time it will deform and loosen the connection. Then, the solder surface will oxidize to form an insulating coating. Thermal cycling alone is sufficient to cause the connection to loosen fairly quickly.

Up to the end of the solder, the wire becomes very hard, causing stress points.

If anyone wants to know, you can buy a Knipex ferrule crimping machine for $30. They sell for more than $200.

I actually scrolled down to say this. I use a Knipex ferrule crimping machine worth $300. I have seen a company suing a contractor because they must re-terminate every connection in the 300 I/O point line because their new electrician brought cheap crimping tools instead of providing him with industrial-grade equipment. I also saw people using cheap wire tags and being sued. These cheap paper labels will turn white and lose ink due to the heat inside the panel. Three months after delivery, a panel of the customer was opened, and each wire label turned white. If you decide to crimp, please use a good quality crimp or bare wire. The $30 crimp tool is a nightmare proposal that will introduce points of failure at every connection in the project. Intermittent wiring failures are painful.

I *** those are called.

I saw them in the dismantled commercial EVSE, but never thought about whether they can be reasonably added to my home equipment. Well, I keep stuffing the twisted wire in, hoping for the best.

You better believe that I will investigate this now...

A few years ago, an article was submitted to HAD, analyzing the "root cause" of the neighboring garage fire (fire in a system controlled by Arduino), and using some general product safety national standards for performance and construction requirements (IEC60335- x, IEC60950-1, IEC61010-1 and IEC60079-x) to demonstrate various problems of faulty systems. cricket. Occasionally, some comments are posted in some HAD projects. Among these examples are amazing examples of fire and electric shock hazards. From Ennuy to hostility, my response to my comments varies. Other comments were obviously censored. To its credit, it seems unlikely that current HAD writers and editors will review and ignore comments and articles with a lot of safety engineering, EMC, and regulatory content. But that ship has already sailed, so the start of the "maker" community is quite difficult.

In any case, the real danger is that if people continue to do stupid things, the state and city governments will find a way to incorporate some interesting pastimes into criminal activities.

"In any case, the real danger is that if people continue to do stupid things, the state and city governments will find a way to incorporate some interesting pastimes into criminal activities."

Or just like many other things, increase the cost of our hobby. If there is a half chance, people will race to the bottom. If it is not the government, it will depend on insurance.

+ infinity As someone with 27 years of professional experience in the electronics manufacturing industry, I can attest that I am surprised by some concepts used (or widely accepted) in the DIY/manufacturer field. All the claims about 3D printer fires from cheap eBay or Chinese toolkits only got one response from me: well, um...

The "you pay" motto applies directly, but due to the declining prices (and proportional quality) in China, many people are starting to cater to/shaping them, and they seem to just care until it's too late.

Don't get me wrong, I will hack/bargain during off-hours. I like to spend less money on my projects, but there are some things I don’t want to sacrifice quality/safety for expenses, even for a project.

The ends of the shoelaces are fixed with small spikes. Yes, there is a name.

Moreover, you will never forget it!

I must check.

Ferrule!

I have been using these times in my industrial automation life. A large sealing washer tip and a pair of nice shoe crimping pliers (they can compress the tip in four directions at the same time! It's amazing!), your engineer will be very happy.

All terminals are also screwless push-down type, which is very useful.

When you have beautiful BIG electronic cabinets, they are great.

Alas, all the products I make today are on a 0.1 inch pitch and there are no suitable terminals for holes or ferrules.

Does anyone see a push-down (no screw) terminal design that can be inserted into a single row of 0.1-inch spacing holes?

(For example, almost all Arduino, Wemos, shield boards and breakout boards on the market)

I will buy one thousand with heart.

Inquire and serve you: 0.1 inch screwless terminal block set for your next arduino shielding project:

As Josh said, they *are* 0.1 inches, but unfortunately require two rows of holes.

(Maybe for mechanical reasons?)

I should try them to see if they combine well enough with just one line, I'm not sure.

I made a lot of screw terminals in the products I made, no, you can't get decent screw terminals with 2.54mm pitch. I use blocks designed for 3.5mm or 5mm pitch. I use 2 and 3 terminal blocks, which are designed to be cascaded by sliding them together, so you can set them to any number greater than 2 if needed.

I did a quick search on Digikey and found the "Terminal Blocks – Wire to Board" category and restricted it to 0.1" and showed many results.

That said, the ones I thought about have two rows of connections because they are a little deeper, but you can easily use the prototype shield and put it on top of it without connecting to the second row of pins.

It appears that Molex and Tyco Electric both have spring release connectors with a pitch of 0.1, but have double-row connections.

Phoenix's screw terminal block is 0.1 inches and is a single row.

+1 makes my life easier and makes myself happy. Ferrule!

Searched on Mouser:

What are the benefits of changing from a 4-side ferrule crimper to a 5 or higher profile version? It seems that the professional version has 6 sides.

Square crimped gaskets are very suitable for square holes.

Hexagonal crimped sealing gaskets are more suitable for installation in round holes, and can also be installed in square holes.

The choice depends on your screw terminals/terminals.

Whenever I want to make sure the connection is strong, I use a sealing gasket, and I know it can carry a lot of current. In addition, the advantage of using a sealing gasket is that over time, you will not get the same contact pressure loss as using a multi-stranded wire, and crimping can solve this problem.

Differential contact pressure is a well-known failure condition that is not unheard of when it causes an electrical fire.

What I want to say is that various sealing gaskets for standard power cord sizes and a pair of crimping pliers suitable for them are a worthwhile investment in terms of safety.

Only worth my $ .02.

Make the 3d printer safe again! Correctly select and press the connector.

It depends on the situation. It is good, but there are many problems when using them in screw terminal blocks. The slider cannot go deep into the wire to maintain proper position because it cannot sufficiently squeeze the ferrule, so it is usually easy to pull it out of the slider.

See where the crimping machine deposits traces.

In my experience, if the wire is placed facing the screw/pressure point, the grip will be better.

In professional environments, ferrules are always used when connecting stranded wires. Make the connection method safer and easier to implement.

Forgot to say that this works at least for larger wires> 0.5mm^2

In the European Union, stranded wires with line voltage and screw terminals-ferrules must be used.

The ferrule crimping machine can also be used for other purposes. Cut a small piece of soft metal tube, insert two wires into it, one at each end, and then crimp it with a ferrule tool. Now, the joints you get are much more mechanical than welding two wires together. This is a good way to connect wires to axial resistors for use as heating elements or thermal fuse. I prefer this method to the current standard heating element method, because the leads will not fall out if they extend from both ends. If a commercially produced printer is constructed in this way, the cited fire is unlikely to occur.

Crimping joints in these parts and places here. Using a small amount of solder on the non-insulating type and the replaceable/heat shrinkable type can improve safety and reliability. You can also "tinning" the wires yourself when using tightening pieces and snap-in strips. Guard strips with lock washers also help. Hot/cold expansion and harsh environments require special attention. Inexpensive ultra-small wiring is an unfavorable environment.

Too many cheap crimping tools are common. If you do not have at least one tooth, your bite is not hard enough and you will be bitten soon.

Tinning wires to insert screw terminals is a bad idea. The cold solder flows, lead oxide is formed quickly at the junction, and the thermal cycle causes the connection to loosen due to the difference in thermal expansion between the solder and the copper/copper alloy...

There is a lot of good information online, and it is forbidden to weld the crimp connection before or after the crimp.

Just don't do it.

After crimping, the welding work is good for me. Don't try before crimping, and don't know why it makes sense. Screw-in plugs and exposed untinned copper wires have been troublesome. Therefore, seal gaskets are used, but the same rules as instructed must be followed. The exception always applies. It's like using any method incorrectly, including ferrule terminators, any form of crimping, poor welding, cheap crimping, improper torque drop, etc.

There are many contradictions and contradictions on the Internet. I will stick to the experience of combining good mechanical and chemical connections, unless otherwise specified and "common sense" by the manufacturer.

If crimped correctly, there is nowhere to put solder. Ideally, there are no gaps between the strands. This is the so-called "air-tight" connection.

The problem with soldering after crimping may be that it wicks the wires, making them hard and forming sharp bends. In addition, if the crimp connection has an insulating support, the solder connection will melt the insulation, thereby removing the insulating support.

If you can only crimp the wire part, please solder so that the solder is only pressed to the crimping area at the end of the wire on about half of the wire, and then crimp the insulating support, which has an advantage in sealing the crimping area to prevent corrosion. I hope that most people do not need this kind of thing in their projects, nor do they need a crimping machine to perform these two stages of crimping.

Sometimes it is difficult for me to find this kind of information on the Internet. When people read these large paper objects (called BOOKS) and kept them in large buildings called LIBRARIES, I learned a lot. fool

Speaking of airtightness, you should see how far I tighten the screws when replacing or adding a house exit. I will never burn the socket due to a loose connection.

chuckle. Well, I myself don’t want to use push-in switches on the wall socket. FWIW I also check circuit breakers and power supplies, especially if I know they are aluminum. Every few years or so. Modern families tend to use push-in distribution hotlines on switches. The cheap switch broke the five-year mark, and the poor soul eventually paid the electrician for the 50-cent equipment.

"In order to obtain CE certification, electrical equipment must be terminated with wires twisted into screw or spring terminals with ferrules."

Well-if I am wrong, someone can correct me, but I will question this. If the product complies with any of the more than 20 related directives and meets the "basic requirements" of these directives, the CE mark is applied to the product. There are other directives that can test products, such as safety, but CE marking is not technically necessary. I can't see where the wire termination will be mentioned in the CE directive.

(Source: Me. Going through the whole sorry thing.)

"The CE mark applies to any one of more than 20 related directives and meets the "basic requirements" of these directives. There are other directives that can test products, such as safety, but the CE mark is not technically necessary . I can’t see where wire terminations will be mentioned in the CE Directive.”

Generally correct. Give the person a cigar. Specifically, the "CE" mark is only applicable to the scope of products restricted by the marking directive. Most instructions are not marked instructions. The CE mark only means that the manufacturer or supplier has proved that the product has the basis for presumed compliance with the directives and standards within the scope; it does not mean that it has obtained any certification from a third-party laboratory or national agency.

The requirements for wire termination are not found in the directive, but will be found in product safety standards and building codes (BS7671, IEC60364, etc.) applicable to end-use equipment or components; the same is true in North America. Generally, safety standards will require two fixing methods for mechanical connection methods for hazardous voltages. Aru will meet these requirements after proper evaluation and evaluation.

Klauke is another (German) company that provides excellent crimping tools.

I think one of my questions is, when is it really inappropriate to use ferrules? A simple method is single core wire.

What about soldering multi-core wires to the board or label?

When using multi-core cables with compression connectors such as Wago levers-or does the same logic that apply to screw terminals apply to Wago lever connectors?

Wago terminals are difficult to use with loose stranded wires, they are not designed for this, so don’t be surprised...

In addition, the amount of compression of the stranded wire will be much greater than that of the solid wire, so it is likely that it is not tight enough and falls out. Sometimes the position of a single stock that falls out is also not fun:(

Make the multi-stranded wire of a given specification have the same cross-section as the solid wire of that specification. Therefore, you will often find wire strippers marked with two gauges on each hole. The smaller wire gauge (larger number) is used for solid wires, and the larger wire gauge (smaller number) is used for solid wires.

Therefore, if you use 18 gauge twisted wire and compress it in the ferrule, its compression will not be less than 18 gauge solid wire. In fact, between the ferrule itself, the shape of the crimping and some compression of the wire, it should be as close to the same size as possible so as not to make any difference.

Anyway, that is my WAG.

> wago terminal block is not suitable for loose stranded wire, it is not designed for it,

Oh, oh.

Movable Wago (old design):

Movable Wago (new design):

These are used for stranded wires.

>I think one of my questions is, when is it really inappropriate to use ferrules?

No ferrules are required for any spring-loaded terminals. example:

And all recent circuit breakers and switches are equipped with screw terminals, the screws pull the metal out

Contact from behind the wire.

example:

A close-up shot (it is a simple screw terminal):

The screw cannot be pushed directly onto the wire, nor can the metal lip be pushed.

Instead, pull out a metal arc/semicircle from the back*.

These do not require ferrules. Hope to help you.

Moreover, this is very important when making hundreds of cable end sleeves.

Cut, twist and end in a set of pliers.

Can we ask for some legislation that bans the attackers of these high-volume magazines, no one would think of children.

I thought that the price was enough to get it out of the control of the elite.

B ^)

For professional tools, the price is actually surprisingly good. However, as an amateur, 240 euros is a bit high for my taste

If the wire is placed under the screw terminal, why should it be stopped halfway with a ferrule, and why not crimp it on the ring terminal? The ring terminal provides all the functions provided by the ferrule and the additional benefit of a flat surface against which the entire underside of the screw head can rest.

I have seen and used gaskets with "European" style bumper strips in industrial environments. This type of strip is not compatible with ring terminals.

The tool I use is the 4-sided WAGO Variocrimp 4 206-204, about $200. good performance.

Those Euro stripes are great and safer than walnut.

No one pointed out that these two pictures came from a company that manufactures many crimping tools. I was surprised.

If you read this article in the wrong way, it seems a bit like sponsored content. ;-)

Subject: Now, I finally have a comprehensive selection of information to understand why the screw terminal does not insert the word "Litze", thank you.

I use "Litze" because all twisted wires are Litze. The light yarn with isolated chains is "HF-Litze" ("High Frequency Light Yarn")-at least I come from. This caused some confusion because the English "Leeds Wire Transfer" is not the German "Leeds", but a specific type of Leeds...

Yes, the way you read the article is wrong. We do not sponsor content. I just took a relevant graphic to illustrate this point, and make sure that the source is correctly identified so that you can judge its suitability for yourself.

I have worked in maintenance, and currently work in engineering design for an American manufacturer. If any type of industrial instrument or automation equipment is involved, it is possible to use sealing gaskets. I have never seen a commercial device where only bare wires enter the junction box. This is just asking for trouble.

I got all the consumables from ferulesdirect.com, and we also buy from them while working. I have one of their 4-sided crimping pliers and it works very well, although you have to adjust it to make sure it is pressed tightly. We have many different companies working, and they all do very well.

I pressed a ferrule tightly and I like it!

One of the reasons I didn't mention the use of ferrules is that if you constantly insert or screw the wires into the screw terminals, you won't damage the solid wires. Otherwise, only a few insertion/removal cycles are required to disconnect the copper sheet.

I use it often. Cheap crimping tools from China are also more expensive professional tools. Visually, the quality of the results appears to be the same, although it is much better to use this expensive tool.

I bought a cheap (about £12) card sleeve crimping machine from eBay, and they seem to be well respected.

Another user I found is that you have two or more solid wires going into the back of the power socket of the ring main power supply. It is always difficult to securely fix multiple wires with one screw terminal. First crimp them with the ferrule.

It is different from the ferrule shown in the picture above, but yes.

Can the bare copper ends be thoroughly "tinned" so that the solder holds the strands together and fills the gaps between them as a substitute?

You should read all other reviews carefully, they are explained in detail here

Read the details above, but to summarize:

No.

never.

Just don't.

I want to know: When there is already a bit of metal between the screw terminal and the screw, do I need a ferrule? I like our fixtures like Wago, but recently I installed some Fibaro Z-Wave modules, the terminals of which look like Digi-Key part number 277-1667-ND. I don't want to use solid wires because I have to move the module around during installation, so I used several stranded wires and connected them with Wago 222-415 to the solid installation wires.

No sealing gaskets are used on both sides.

"I want to know: When there is already a bit of metal between the screw terminal and the screw, do you need a ferrule?"

One problem I encountered was that when the wires were bent, the sharp edges of the trapped metal washers would cut into strands and frayed. A suitable size ferrule or open end crimping ring terminal can move the bend up to the insulated part of the wire, and also prevent the stranded wire from being cut.

I am engaged in various large industrial equipment to make a living. I was bitten or stabbed by voltage and sucked blood on stray wires, which is more than I can count when troubleshooting and reworking old equipment. I hope to use the gasket that was popular in the United States about 40 years ago.

One of these flat blade crimp terminals is another cable end that I found, when multiple cables are terminated to a single terminal on a block (if you need to troubleshoot or perform maintenance on a regular basis, you need to remove one or more Cable), very useful.

I just bend them to different angles and can stack several into one terminal. Also suitable for single wires in high current terminal blocks because they are flat and can better contact with IMO

Using ferrules and welding heads: if the operation is correct, there is no difference! Ferrules have the same problems as soldering iron tips. The point where the ferrule meets the insulating layer may break. No problem with soldering iron head and screw terminal for 20 years

Please refer to the comments above to understand why soldering the stranded wire and then clamping it is a bad idea, it is not equivalent to a ferrule. Solder creep, corrosion, thermal expansion difference, etc.

Interestingly, inserting thick stranded wires into screw terminals and hoping for the best results will increase resistance and heat. It is best to use smaller wires to ensure safety. Maybe chopping might be the best option.

I attended this party very late, but I want to ask the experts questions. For car battery cables, many people are switching to multi-port terminals, such as KluKonceptz Ultimate Terminal or Stingers with Allen head squeeze ports. Is it wrong to crimp the ferrule on the 2 AWG main wire from the battery to the starter and from the battery to the engine ground? Or is it better to just fill the original wire with solder and insert it? Or... just insert the bare wire and crush it? TIA-Mike

Do you have a ferrule crimping tool that can handle 2 AWG? I doubt you can make a satisfactory crimp unless you use the right tools. I can't even imagine how many tools it would cost for a wire of this size!

Maybe you should seek advice from the manufacturers of these terminals you mentioned, and share with us after getting their answers.

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Almost nothing affects the electrons generated by the printed circuit board (PCB). If someone still has to wire all the wires, then cheap consumer electronics will not be so cheap (though I will definitely see wiring robots now). Between removing people from the wiring process and providing many excellent electrical properties (at least on well-designed boards), it is not surprising that even the cheapest electronic product examples now use PCBs.

For many years, the hallmark of being a large electronic hacker is the ability to manufacture your own PCB. People have many ways

: Paste on decals, photosensitive blank PCB, even

(The last one reminds me of PCB layout books many years ago). You will also see a lot of people using

Either

Create the PCB. In almost a week, no one asked me how to make a PCB in a home or small business laboratory.

My reaction is always: "Why?" As early as the 1980s, I worked in a company that made PCBs, and our circuit board company went bankrupt. So we bought them. They have a series of electroplating machines, plotters and exotic chemical processing equipment. They are 60 miles away from our company, which is very convenient because we will directly bring the giant artwork roll to the board of directors. The cost is high, and according to modern regulations on dumping chemicals, it may be even higher. The price of the mold is particularly high. The first board costs a lot. By today's standards, even the 100th board is expensive.

I have made many boards myself in those days, especially prototype boards that may have problems. But they have never been the same as the business committee. it is

(Not impossible, but difficult). You will not plate through holes, so you must use wires or rivets to connect the sides. You may not have thought, but connecting the copper on both sides of a commercial PCB will increase the strength of the PCB circuit. Just as single-sided panels are easier to layer than double-sided panels, my self-made double-sided panels have the same trend because they are basically two back-to-back single panels. You can use some toxic chemicals to electroplate the board, but the effect is not ideal. And I have never found a reasonable way to make solder mask. Screen printing is not worth the trouble, even though I used rubbing on the letter, and later I did a toner transfer to get a similar effect.

The worst part of making your own motherboard is:

. These holes really need to be aligned correctly (especially for IC sockets), if you tighten them, you can start from step 1. Of course, surface mounting is possible, but most circuit boards still require at least some holes (even if only for vias). The second worst part is handling all chemicals. Clear etching effect is not bad, but easier to obtain

Dirty everything! I still have some traces on the terrace concrete to prove this. I never bile to try some homemade etchings because they also have nasty chemicals.

Things are different today. You can lay out the PCB completely on the computer (even

). With the click of a button, you can send these files to anywhere in the world. There are dozens (or more) boards that can produce your board cheaply. Many of them are in Asia, but now there are affordable options everywhere. The only thing you really need is time. You cannot have any ideas in the morning, but you can view the prototype PCB in the afternoon. However, if you are willing to wait-and the waiting time does not have to be that long-even if you only produce one or two boards, you can get beautifully crafted boards at a very low cost. You will get multi-layers, through-hole plating, silk screen printing and all the other features you expect on a professionally produced circuit board.

Yes, my CNC milling machine will remove the copper (and the end mill) and leave a circuit board without solder mask, silk screen and plated through holes. I still have a water tank for heating ferric chloride (it should be Stain-it-all brand). But I never did it again. Not worth it at all. You shouldn't either. Despite the suggestions provided in the video below, the best way to remove ferric chloride stains is to not use ferric chloride at all!

I will try my best to recommend a special board so that I will not be accused of advertising for a particular board. We had a Hackerchat not long ago, and several people mentioned their favorites. Ask around. Or leave your favorite (and why) in the comments.

Don't get me wrong. No need to tell anyone who reads Hackaday, even if someone can buy it elsewhere, why something should be built. I have always been like this. If your goal is to learn PCB or modify PCB craft, then be sure to take action. However, if your goal is to make a prototype of something, and the PCB is just a way to achieve the final goal, dump the ferric chloride, save the end mill, and find a wooden house. You will be very happy.

The wire-wrapped tool of the line drawer does sound very good

We have one in the university (1982). I wrote a schematic capture program to convert pin assignments to endpoints. Except for DIP packets, it will not process anything.

The input is Gerber on punched tape. :)

Why did house manufacturers stop using stretch film?

The reason I switch is because I can only reuse the socket many times before the connection is unstable or the entire circuit board is damaged. I can no longer buy sockets for 26 cents. And the method of getting the signal from the board is also very expensive.

I don't know why they stopped, but I know why I haven't started yet. These sockets are too expensive these days! If I can buy something cheap, then I will definitely use a winding machine!

Who stopped? I have been engaged in winding for more than 40 years. Before I provide PCBs to customers, I still make winding boards to check new circuits. Now, I make the PCB pattern to adapt the surface mount parts to the standard [0.1×0.3] lead wire receptacle pitch, and observe carefully eBay snapped up the wire reel for future use. Punch holes for unused pins, and then heat press them (using a soldering iron tip) into the perforated board to form your own socket.

k-ww, do you have a website link or a way to contact you for design services?

J:

Sorry, I didn't see your reply-on the forum, I [k-ww] afternoon, I will reply to you as soon as possible.

I have never disturbed a website.

Because the company stopped making things for us. Winding wire is hard to find. There is Chinese rubbish there, but nothing like the huge red spool in 1979 that I sniffed on Dayton Hamfest ten years ago. The quality of old things is much higher than what can be bought today.

I have many things!

When I fix a circuit board or make a simple wire harness, I use only a few inches of distance, but about 50 rolls.

I also have that sleeve, which can be slid onto the resistor lead etc.

I have considered selling items on eBay, but there seems to be a lot of new unused rolls, so I didn’t bother.

I want to make sure that there is no asbestos in the heat pipe of the resistor.

Once I finish tearing off the fluffy house siding, I will inspect it.

Wow. Here (Australia), we have some houses. The product name of the house is "Mr Fluffy", which is bulk asbestos and is used as insulation material for the ceiling. These houses were demolished due to hidden safety hazards (there are definitely hidden safety hazards, but there are better demolition methods). So I think your answer is "fluffy siding" is a similar asbestos product? Which country are you in?

We have forgotten that most electronic components are now in SMD form. I think the winding died just for this reason. PCBs are getting smaller and smaller, and there are fewer and fewer vias. As a result, PCBs have become cheaper and may also contribute to the rise of PCB houses.

The only through-hole material I use is to experiment on a breadboard. Even for this, I often use SMD chips on the carrier board.

Winding is very useful for establishing a secure custom link between the evaluation boards: you can twist it into a twisted pair (hint: use a vise and drill bit, find or test to make the impedance correct. And don't forget the ground loop Connect)! lvds is good, but remember that it constantly feeds current to one or the other wire), and it is easy to establish multiple 320mbit connections between FPGAs in this way. (This is also useful for sharing the system clock).

Consider the usual methods of using those "push-in" connections: great for prototypes that don't need to be moved anywhere, but end up with a wire nest of rats, you only need to touch it to cause failure-especially on connectors Getting old-like an old breadboard...

On the other hand, winding machines are known for their reliability in making connections correctly. They are also very strong: as long as they are not straightened, the wires can usually be broken before the winder is released.

You should have a winding tool and use it to hook the PMOD to the esp01 module... 3D print some clips so that you can fix very small modules, and you already have a very flexible way to do it The setup is complex and powerful (and sturdy)! ) A system from a large number of inexpensive modules.

Resist the urge to integrate all intelligence into one chip-rather than separate systems by function-for example, your car has multiple completely independent hydraulic oil systems instead of one convenient place to fill "universal" hydraulic oil, so you You can save a lot of time and unnecessary pain, make everything run normally. Compress all the content into a microprocessor, you will spend exponentially increased time trying to make everything run reliably, because you only compress one of them Small functions. Unless you like this challenge, it is...but shouldn't you use your elite computer hardware hacking skills to control/do something that will make a difference?

good luck!

Yes, but where can I buy cheap winding sockets/pins/tools?

I still have a lot of 30 gauge silver wires, and sometimes I use them to repair broken wires/vias on the PCB. I would love to develop a tool for packaging standard pin headers.

Winding is a fast development because you can make changes without having to start using another version of the circuit or PCB.

It is easy to make a PCB with all the parts (even SMD), then terminate all the parts to the header and wire from there. It will be faster and easier.

Ordinary 0.1 inch spacer joints (joints with square cross-section pins that can be conveniently placed on almost all parts) are all you need to wire.

Facts have proved that these tools work well even in IDE sockets and other places. If you pay attention to this, you can even connect them to a 2mm connector and shorten the length of the wire.

Those "winding" joints with extra-rectangular pins exist to provide space for multiple connections for each pin. All you really need are about 0.25" or so, if necessary, you can use 0.2".

The only thing that is not necessary is that you absolutely need a square cross-section to wrap the wire-the edge bites into the wire and establishes a good corrosion-free electrical connection.

Therefore, anything with a 0.1 inch blank hole is fair, as long as the usual square male pins are soldered.

This is enough to connect point-to-point links, and there is usually enough space to wind two wires onto a single pin.

I just spent a few hours looking for my winding tool. It is a kind of metal jewelry screwdriver. No, I will have to order one.

Thank you for sharing your experience. Adding windings to the prototype will take me a lot of time and some parts.

Fry's sells classic screwdriver wrapping tools and various Kynar wires. Ordinary filth will also bring these. Kynar is still widely used because it is the standard for protruding wires. Sockets can come from the same socket, but they are expensive.

Remidier: It is indeed my idea. These days, most of my prototype wiring is head-to-head, not between components. And most of the breakout boards and evaluation boards are all displayed on the 0.1" square terminal. Moreover, Kynar is very suitable for fine solder connections in situations where wires need to be fixed to tiny through holes or test points.

Maybe it's because there are not many methods on the Internet that are easy to find? If you wrap it with Google’s wire, you will get a pendant...

I want to order a winding tool and try it. Thanks to [remydyer]'s suggestion, I will use the standard 0.1 inch header. I will get the pins at right angles and invert them every second to make them SMD. These tools are still in production, and they are available in places like digikey and mouser.

Google Keywords –

Winding tape unpacking tool

Winding tool prototype

I even saw a youtube message on YouTube about how to use Parker's refill endoscope, although this is not exactly the same-it can be wrapped, but the appropriate tool can also press the wires into the four corners of the wrapping post in.

Google search added the "prototype" filter trick, come on!

I have collected a lot of wire-wrapped things from flea markets and other places, the latest one I found is a "gun" that works at 42 volts (!?). All these old things look very professional, even with decades of DIL sockets...

I am so impressed, I want to start right,"

If it is in the voltage range above 40 volts, then it will be 48 volts, because this is a standard for telecommunications equipment, and windings have been widely used in the telecommunications field. The standard wire gauge in telecommunications is much larger, about 24AWG, while the wire gauge of the prototype winder is about AWG30-31

I will still carry out many packages when it makes sense. You must pay attention to whether it exceeds a certain frequency, because all small windings and extra wires will become problems. Mr. Hurd has done a good job in this technology:

Although it is mainly due to physical disability that I cannot hold the soldering iron steadily, I still perform automatic winding.

Look at the multi-wire circuit boards. I worked with them in the 80s and they are fascinating!

Dear hackaday, please get rid of your novice. I am an avant-garde teenager, writing in anxious writers with BS views, and then come back and publish articles about hacks. Recently, you have done almost nothing other than making self-righteous posts instead of actual hackers. Some examples and why, the author made a shocking comment on the pi/slr lens "is it feasible" and then listed other content for no reason, not just left it. The post "This is what a real bomb looks like" is decently written, but at the same time, the title and time also happen to be related to the child's disassembled alarm clock. Trying to be avant-garde again. Yes, even the child who dismantled the watch put it in a box. In this case, no matter what his skin color is, 99% of people in the world will start to worry about what it actually is, regardless of his Whatever the skin color, the program will make a clock. Please go back to the publishing position and stop being an avant-garde social warrior, because you will lose readers and project submitters, including this person.

I am biased because I sell products through HAD, but I like new articles on the blog. They still publish a lot of hacking articles, but now they have mixed in many news, opinions and educational articles, adding depth and diversity to the blog. I also doubt that they will lose viewers, in fact I bet such posts will attract all kinds of new followers.

You may like it, but I don't like it.

Kinda recently missed a great trick.

Well, you paid the price for this, so of course you have the right to ask for what you really want unconditionally. Their guts force you to read articles on the Internet that you don't like!

(For HaD, this is a very useful position for me because I have been discussing the relationship between outsourcing and milling).

There is no such thing as a free lunch, it just means that someone else is paying. In this case, advertisers who pay for the eyeballs. The Home Affairs Department ignores its readers and is at its own risk, because without readers, they have no income.

The new editor's voice must be overly critical, and shifting the focus from hackers to social issues also made me feel wrong. Leave those worthless, smug, overly disgusting snakes to the commentators!

Similarly, here, I have been arguing whether it is worth getting the tools to make PCBs at home, sticking to the value of test boards or manufacturing boards for a single project...

I think this article can help me solve this problem, learn PCB design and do it for me!

Caleb moved to Makezine. Check there...or wait 3 days, these articles will be found here.

Well, some aspects of the new writing style attract new audiences. I. I have heard of HaD, but I used to read one or two articles every few months. Now, I have subscribed to the RSS feed and check it several times a day.

The opinions of experienced people are valuable and can save time. When I am programming, I will be very angry (already from the board of directors) and am diagnosing the connection problem on the homemade beer board...

"But I never did it again. It wasn't worth it. Neither should you."

Such things are not opinions. This is the words of an elitist bastard who thinks they know what others want, need or value. There is nothing wrong with the opinions, but they are not well written.

exactly. Moreover, I am smarter than a writer, because I don't find it difficult to do a double panel. I even finished the multi-layer process (well, the two exposed boards are separated by two). Of course, this is more out of curiosity to see if it is feasible (that is, if you are in the midst of zombie apocalypse, you really need to do one). But on both sides? Why is it hard? Starting with a double-sided PCB, glue the transparencies together as a sleeve (leave margins), exposing both sides once or at a time, and then etch like a side board. Drill holes. Cut the legs of the TH component to create vias. It's easy. Multi-layered, now just stupid. Completely feasible, but it is easy to make mistakes in the design phase.

I'm looking to use coated brass gaskets (later copper gaskets) adhered to Kapton tape and remove the coating using a laser engraving machine I made. If it works as expected, then not only double-sided printing but also Multi-layer printing should be no problem. The same flexible circuit boards, and the gap between them is thin enough to easily connect the sides together, so it won't be electroplated, but it still works. By the way, I have used it to melt the solder and soldered with enough energy. The loose rosin flux core emits zero odor, even on the hot soldering device I own, they usually do Smells, so there should be no problem soldering hardly anything hidden on the board, but popping them from behind through a tiny through hole should make more through holes than is already needed :)

indeed.

He is a little cavalry on this route, but calling him a hole is a bit too sensitive. Usually, making your own PCB is an unreasonable choice, although it will make people hear pain. In some cases, this makes sense 1. If you like it 2. If you can’t wait 3. If the shipping is expensive or unavailable.

Indeed, he pointed out that if you absolutely can't wait, then board seats are meaningless.

Frankly speaking, I like this type of article and provide useful suggestions. I don’t need the author to downplay my point of view in order to “know the facts” in order to be able to learn from it. Without this kind of advice, I might spend months *tracking the etching parameters when I might take the time to really understand . Something that works!

*It doesn't take months to etch, I just don't have much free time.

Every time I consider making my own PCB, I add the power supply and the time required. I inevitably shipped it to OSHpark and saved money and frustration. The only thing I can do is whether I need to make a big board, but the projects I need a big board can almost always be done with perfboard and peer-to-peer.

Or, or, what you just said is an ignorant bastard, they don't even bother to do what they are wasting, because climbing on your high horse, complacently creating and creating anger, is in vain. Feeling that you have any self-worth is far more important than being right.

Note: I call you an ignorant bastard, very polite. Another option is that you read the last paragraph and decide to ignore it. This will make you a lying, manipulative, stupid bastard. That's much worse.

"Don't get me wrong. No need to tell anyone who reads Hackaday, why would you want to build something even if someone can buy it elsewhere. I have always been like this. If your goal is to learn PCB or modify the PCB process, then Be sure to take action. However, if your goal is to make a prototype of something, and the PCB is just a way to achieve the end goal, dump the ferric chloride, save the end mill, and find a wooden house. You will be very happy."

nailed it.

The last paragraph does not change the fact that he is a despicable assassin, he cannot/will not for whatever reason, nor does he think anyone else should do the same.

Most of the content of the article is just trying to prove the rationality of this view, and even falsely claim that "it is difficult to be a two-sided committee."

It seems that the concentration of sulfuric acid is not proportional, especially considering the age of the line.

Yes, that's the problem. Self-righteous bastards who are often wrong. I have completed the double panel, no problem. There is no FeCl used for etching. How many through holes? no problem. If you have to drill a large number of holes manually (surface mount is your friend), this is very inconvenient. It depends on your priority! Is the inconvenience worth it? How many components do you need to test before a week’s final design? Then you may want to make your own board, instead of spending a few weeks to change the design, waiting for a new board, and spend very little money on small orders and shipping!

Wow wow

I will not give up making PCB anytime soon. It is easy for me to express my disagreement on [Al Williams] without using derogatory terms to describe anyone.

Seriously, I like many articles written by [Al Williams], but I don't understand why people need to "leave" when they disagree on an article.

He is at least better than other novices I can't stand.

@grab

"

Wow wow

I will not give up making PCB anytime soon. It is easy for me to express my disagreement on [Al Williams] without using derogatory terms to describe anyone.

indeed. This is a far below his usual standard, mainly composed of poorly worded opinions, which makes him look bad. However, there is still no reason to call this man a "hole".

I disagree. I like these new positions. Sometimes I learn something, sometimes I don't. But please keep posting them.

I don’t know if they are increasing or decreasing readers, but I bet on the former. Anyone who just wants to read these tips can try them and skip the rest. It's just pixels on the screen, so it's not like filling your house with extra paper or other things...

Sorry. you are wrong. I find these articles very interesting. This is also invaluable to people who have not made their own circuit boards since the age of two.

I agree that editorial articles are a good idea, but maybe you can improve them, make them more professional, and conduct in-depth research, instead of this kind of "over my head" news. Taking this article as an example, he could have written about the advantages of making his own circuit boards and not using the immature-sounding exaggerated overhead language. Even the title is ridiculous.

It is still better than popular science. They have a history of more than 140 years and there have been many useful articles in the past, but for those who have added ADD, everything has become a glorified Twitter feed.

I have added Leon. You are a bit rude joking. I don't know what this has to do with this article. You should be ashamed of yourself and your family. I hope God will forgive you. Oh, aren't you @lehjr1 on Twitter

very sure……. Please more interesting tricks instead of the 100th guy who made a clock or used arduino to do what ne555 can do...

Agree that nowadays, people use the arduino platform to build things, which can be done with a very simple 555 timer and some ingenuity. The microcontroller is incredible. I love them. I don't need a light to flash. If I want to control a motor or a servo, I may need one. Some of the best uses I have seen on these AVRs are 3D printer controller boards. That really maximizes speed and memory.

As early as the RC era, servers were controlled by analog circuits. 555 can actually be used to control the server-you only need to control the duty cycle.

Some people like to walk in both directions, which is cool. Working under constraints rather than spending money to solve problems is a great skill.

However, due to the love of acrylonitrile butadiene styrene, please stop designing AVRs in 3D printers. A system that needs to perform mathematical operations on the input data while maintaining the input data throughput, and at the same time control the motor and the potentially dangerous thermal circuit in real time, is to play with the wrong time of the encoder. NXP produces dual-core ARM with a retail price of 1x about $11. It has all the resources that a modern 3D printer might need, but people have always supported the Arduino/RAMPS/Marlin stack and wondered why the printer would stall when doing high vector density contours.

Due to your poor use of punctuation and poor grammar in general, it took me a few readings to understand your argument. At first, although you claimed to be an avant-garde teenager, I wrote this comment in anxiety.

In addition, HaD has evolved since its establishment. They used to just post great hackers. They still publish awesome hacking articles, but also focus on building education and technological advancement communities. It is no longer just an "RSS feed" of the latest cool tricks. The Ministry of Defense has a mission. I alone agree with their mission and love the new direction they are taking. If you don't like it, please go out.

He didn't even make the 12-year-old clock. He took the contents from the alarm clock and put it in a suitcase. Watch this 20 second video

It would be great if someone could embed this file for me, because I am not sure what to do when hackaday. There is also this video explaining the details of all the errors in the "clock bomb"​​

I tried to make "suggestions" to hackaday, but I think they are unwilling to appear stupid by publishing this evidence because no one has bothered.

It's just... that's not a clock bomb, but a clock. There is no countdown to the real bomb, unless it is a movie. The "actual size" of the clock is not a suitcase, and the photo is misleading. More like a "pencil box". I'm sorry if you think that any "proof" is not something that a 12-year-old child is happy to work with.

I think that, as the website pointed out, there is only one post per day, and the rest are news and crowdfunding information;)

I am a big fan of Batchpcb, but, they are no longer. And I don’t want my planks to turn purple.

To be fair, the quality of those purple boards is "excellent" *

If I can wait, I still order from dirtypcb, but my experience with the purple board players (OSHPark) is very good.

I will add one more, we have a 3 day turnaround, which includes some advanced PCB circuits. There are no masks on them, but the copper tinning is good. They welded beautifully.

I have good experience in OSHPark. They always complete tasks on time, and besides I have never encountered defects, they are also very reasonable.

Whether all my projects are enclosed or potted, this helps me like purple.

+1 I will enjoy different colors here and there, but the quality of OSHPark board is really top-notch

As long as it is not black, the color of the circuit board is not a big deal. It is difficult to trace the circuit. If you want to prototype a circuit board, it is usually in a project box or a 3D printed enclosure that I can’t see. If I can get cardboard in any color I like, I would like to see some orange cardboard.

Copper is a color like "orange", so I think it is difficult to see traces on the orange board.

I found that among all the common solder mask colors, yellow provides the best circuit visibility. It tends to be the most transparent, and the contrast between the copper and the laminate substrate is high.

I have been looking for a board that can provide a clear solder mask, just to make the appearance neat. It is thought that the mask coating started to become transparent and pigments were added to make it discolored, so it should be possible. This is not a common drop-down option on western-facing websites I have seen.

Yes, for robbery reasons, I personally don't like orange, but yellow or bright blue would be fine. For the same reason, green is also good, but it is clichéd.

for reference only:

>In the past year of making Teensy 3.0 and 3.1, we have been working hard to improve quality and output. For any PCB, only a small part of it fails. We will fully test each Teensy, so any short circuit or open circuit can be detected. Save the broken things for diagnosis, and then we throw them away. (No, don’t ask if we will sell bad boards at excess prices, because we will never do it)

>Facts have proved that some faults can be traced back to the black solder mask. It should look the same, but the color is different, but in fact it is not the same at all. The resolution of black material is not as good as green. I was very surprised to learn this, but it is true.

One can consider green antiques :)

Does anyone have bad experience with dirtypcb? I want to know because my budget is limited.

Yes, I submitted a circuit board with electrical errors once. It sucks.

But they sent me about 25 similar items. They reproduced the error flawlessly, so they are very concise.

DIrtyPCB is great for me, I have no problem using them twice. The postage does take a while.

Now, I have completed the 7 bpards test with a dirty PCB, and they are all excellent! I made my own plate on my own CNC rolling mill 5 years ago, but in the past year and a half, I hardly touched it. These boards can be made easily with dirty PCBs, and I can use a more compact layout.

Faster turnaround time, tighter tolerances and better quality results. When their successors are better on all important indicators, why miss batchpcb? What is your opinion on purple wood planks?

I use Seeed Studio for the board. Any color and plating options I want. It will take a few weeks, but it's worth it. There are no problems yet.

How to learn how to design PCB? I am working on 1 or maybe 3 of the Raspberry Pi HAT. It actually only has 5 parts, 2 of which are resistors and capacitors. I have tried the online options and Eagle, but I just don't understand how to arrange the traces, especially where they overlap.

This is art! Good component placement makes routing easier, and then for tracks that must cross, you can use vias to jump between layers. I recommend KiCad because it is free and unlimited. Check out the tutorial including my screencast here:

I support KiCad's suggestion. I have used Eagle and KiCad, and I prefer KiCad, mainly because of the lack of restrictions.

Although there are some rules and methods for placement and routing, I find that this is mainly an experience. After a few times, you will understand how to place components and run tracks. Practicing in a small project with only 5 parts is a good exercise because you can easily remove traces and move around without having to reconnect the 34 components.

+1 KiCad

XuLA’s Dave V recently did some great things for KiCad:

Please pay attention to the link on this page, where he talked about placing his KiCad library on GitHub.

You may be interested in his hat.

"But if your goal is prototyping and the PCB is just a way to achieve the final goal, dump ferric chloride, save the end mill, and find a wooden house. You will be very happy."

I will be very happy next week. No, I want the board of directors now. If the board of directors is within my abilities, I have to wait for the board for several hours each time.

Exactly what I think. If it's easy, but I only want one anyway, then complete the toner transfer. If it is complicated/multiple runs/can be waited, plant it.

It is politically incorrect to dump ferric chloride! B ^)

Yes, there are also parts related to drilling and ferric chloride stains-keep pace with the times! SMD parts and CuCl2 or NaSO4 are good.

Or citric acid, table salt and hydrogen peroxide. It is cheap and can be purchased at any store + pharmacy.

Also-in my case-any Chinese board needs = 1 month waiting time. If the post office or customs is annoying – 2 months.

Local prices are higher, but it takes about a week, and it is inconvenient to travel to the city.

I will give a name! If you need a quick plank, Sunstone is "awesome". If you uploaded the file in the morning, you can get on the bulletin board in less than 24 hours. If you need silk or resistance, you must stay one day longer.

I also want to add that for simple boards, CNC milling cutters like Othermill may be great. If you can design with most SMD components and plan the sides carefully, then hole plating is not a problem. It is also very suitable for making top tools such as breakout boards and programming fixtures.

When do you live in which city? In which country? And which wallet?

exactly! No one stated their country, so you must assume that they are in the United States. In this case, this information is as useless to me as it is elsewhere.

So-good article and good intentions, but for people who are not in the US... useless information.

I have used it in several different places in the past, but my current favorite is DirtyPCBs. The price is right; you have choices that are not available elsewhere, such as panelization, colors, etc.; the interface is very good and simple, developed by hackers. Yes, the waiting process is annoying (in fact, I am now waiting for my latest batch of boards), but this is not the end of the world. If I really want to get DHL soon, I can always spend more money. (According to my experience, the manufacturing time is not that long; it's just that the transportation is very slow).

A good reason is that someone came up with an idea when they showed up at my house on Saturday morning and left the running prototype a few hours later. Likewise, they are also suitable for decoration tests, errors and unforeseen things. Then, I sent it to the board.

It's interesting for people who haven't done it before. The problem is that when you are a veteran doing something, you often get tired of it.

Let everything be outsourced, and then we can sit down and drink and watch netflix and wait for DHL to arrive.

I still use a PCB milling machine to handle fast and dirty things, such as fixtures, and I need to connect the connector to a few through-hole pins. Things such as PCB boards are suitable, but I can't completely agree that even for small layouts (fine pitch, large number of through holes, two layers), you only need to order the circuit board! One thing that is still worth doing is hand-soldering your own parts, when you only need a few prototypes, the cost of setting up pick and place is high.

Some of us just like hand-made things that can be easily mass-produced. I’m sure that once I can do this easily, I might get bored with the creative process, but now “Can I make a high-quality LQFP board?” It’s the same as designing circuits or coding for microcontrollers. An interesting challenge. I don’t fool myself into thinking that prices or turnaround times make a big difference. Once I don't like it, I will stop.

+1

I have reduced the thickness of the TQFP PCB to 0.8mm, but I don't think I will try to reduce its size because I doubt if I can solder without solder mask.

Household solder mask is no more complicated than etching. I have achieved great success on Dynamask 5000. You will need to use a laminator and need the same UV exposure as the photoresist. Other than that, it's easy.

You don’t even need that kind of laminator. I just started using one, but I always have the problem of dust sticking to the film. Since then, I have written a pdf file by Adam Seychell describing a wet lamination method, which I have been using since then, and there is no better result than a laminator. See this:

My 2 cents. I still make PCB at home, because unlike North America/Europe, finishing the PCB in the factory is still an expensive proposition. Good luck, if you hope to get them in a day or two, you will make money for everything.

I have not found any decent and friendly PCB service in India.

PCB manufacturers in my country charge $75 for any prototype. So I tested a Chinese manufacturer, the price is cheap, about 10 to 20 dollars, depending on the size. The disadvantage is the waiting time. For me, this is still too much, because my monthly income is about $300, more than half of which is spent on my bill (food is not cheap). Therefore, I have to etch the board at home.

Expert tip: Use sodium persulfate instead of ferric chloride. It is slower and stains clothes, but it won't damage anything else.

I am using ammonium persulfate and it works very well. But it needs to be heated to 70 degrees Celsius.

I used to use ferric chloride, but now it is difficult to get here because it has been declared a dangerous transport chemical.

I have never had a problem with stains. Ferric chloride contact is actually very dangerous, so I am very careful-never drip or spill. I treat ammonium persulfate in the same way.

I still think the internal PCB can be used for some projects. Quick patch panels or single-sided PCBs (possibly with links on the other side) may be used for power regulation/control.

But double-sided PTH with fine pitch SMD is used for the board.

I have used ferric chloride, it is messy and difficult to see the etching of the circuit board. Ammonium persulfate is difficult to obtain and use; but now I use 50:50 thiosine (from Lowes/HD) and hydrogen peroxide (from anywhere) at room temperature. Remember AAA, always add acid. You can see that your circuit board is etched, and there is no pollution, except for the green copper color produced by the etching.

I like the 2-hour prototype, but Sunstone does a very good job in production.

You can even put it at a higher level. You can not only outsource PCB manufacturing, but also outsource PCB assembly.

With the help of Seeeds open parts library and assembly services, it is easy to complete the assembly of a PCB without the need for mass purchase, chipping and quotation. When I asked 4 companies to quote for two weeks-I assembled the PCB and delivered it within 4 weeks.

If you want to use the components they provide in the library, it will be very simple.

Price is a different issue, but I will not make it faster or cheaper individually.

There is only one disadvantage, if a component is not on the list, then you still have to do it the traditional way. But in any case, BGA&Co is not on the road to their goal of cheap PCB.

I will ask other companies in the assembly to do the same. Open the parts list. Keep it anyway. Let people use the parts and provide a website to calculate the price based on the BOM. All parts that do not match are rejected and referred to as completed work.

You can even put it at a higher level. Why not just describe your ideas to the engineer, and let him design and implement the circuit? You can get it at a very favorable price and save a lot of time.

And why do you want to do this, why not spend some money for people with ideas instead of doing it yourself?

In a sense, it makes sense to outsource production, but it goes far beyond what we think of as "hackers" or even prototyping.

Higher level: Copy and paste someone's code onto a pre-made development board.

Well, if someone can recommend some reasonably priced high-quality board villas in the Americas, and then ship them to Brazil, I can try it. Otherwise, the reason for making our prototype board in-house is that it does not take 3-4 months for the board to arrive and will get lost in the mail that has never been delivered.

It’s a shame that Brazil’s publishing system is so slow and unreliable (especially if you buy from other countries). So far, I have completed all PCB work at home, but a friend of mine recommended this service for low-quantity PCBs:

On average, I order 1 board per week through iTead Studio. Except for Chinese holidays, they are sending orders from one click to DHL, which rang in about 8 days. The order I received this morning is for a 4-layer, .8mm thick, ENIG, black solder mask for commercial products. I am promoting their DRC. Therefore it is not a typical hobby specification.

There is a price comparison site for PCB manufacturing. it is

It includes the 25 most famous manufacturers in North America, Europe and Asia. You enter the specifications of the board, and it will immediately provide you with the price and delivery time.

Users can also read and write Amazon-style reviews of manufacturers.

I don't like HaD's increasingly provocative editorials. Everyone has an opinion; what is the significance of raising it to article status? The title is a frivolous invitation to the speech; in the end, this tone becomes frustrating and offensive to anyone who disagrees with the author's priorities.

Home PCB manufacturing is no longer as obvious as it used to be. At that time, home board houses were the cheapest option, and prototypes would still charge a higher per unit cost on top of the high installation fee. However, even in situations that have nothing to do with you, rapid prototyping with a small budget is still suitable for many situations. Over the years, my spare time has decreased, but my disposable income has increased. It is easy to delay the project for several weeks before a $20 PCB order arrives. If I rarely spent cash when I was a teenager, I would definitely make the board myself.

I am not sure if it is the responsibility to put pressure on novices to run 3 OSH parks for a single board, which may require reworking or re-spinning, which increases costs and adds frustrating waiting time.

Many of the process defects mentioned in this article are effective, but I have to say: Don’t like ferric chloride stains? Don't splash it! I used a small acrylic tray instead of a few tablespoons of etchant to make a typical circuit board. After the circuit board is completed, the etchant will return to the storage bottle. I seldom sprinkle a few drops of water, and then only pour it into the sink. After washing it after use, the water will be quickly diluted with water. One liter of etchant can last for several years. I developed this tin plating solution method, which is more toxic than FeCl3. But equally cautious, the prudent method also applies to any chemical.

You know, now that I look at it, most of my young people share the blame attitude expressed in this article. It's almost like studying the fine content of electronics in depth is no longer an interesting thing, but more annoyance, because "someone will do that". People just want what they want, and they think the "details" can be outsourced to the manufacturer of the product used by the hacker. I think part of the reason is that electronic products are evolving into things that are much more complicated than circuits that place individual parts on a board. Now, we have inexpensive and complex ICs, microcomputers that can work like giant parts boxes 20 years ago, and swarms of advanced reusable software. Therefore, we can only operate at a higher level and get people It seems that the thrill of faster results is driving some thinking. But if no one learns the miniature, component-level things, who will? There is no doubt that someone in the country sells these PCB services and they are happy to sell their technologically advanced products/services. My concern is that, overall, we are losing these capabilities. Of course, if we need to learn, the Internet will tell us what to do, but we don’t want to learn now – I want to integrate a system with RaspBerry Pi, which is an ESP8266 with a huge library. I downloaded it in 3 seconds . People can progress by learning higher-level concepts, which is great, but I hope that part of our class can keep things at lower levels alive, even though it seems "boring." Outsourcing will provide the idea of ​​"freedom to get rid of manufacturing details" actually replacing the fun of learning details. sigh. Perhaps it is a sign of the times.

As you said, this may create more job opportunities for people engaged in "boring" jobs. Just like drones, but on a larger scale. If people are more likely to participate, it means that someone is working hard. More and more people are spending money in this particular field. Of course, this makes it a bunch of bartoes and idiots, but this is the price you pay for having a huge market.

I think there is a difference between people who are just starting out now and Americans 20-40 years ago: median income no longer buys too much space unless you are lucky enough to find a job in the right field. Therefore, although many people could have a house with space for a small workbench in a garage or office, for most people, this will be many years of history. This means that people really have to choose tools and projects that can be solved.

This is just the problem I encountered when I entered reading this article. I want to do some circuit board manufacturing by myself, but all the space needed may mean that I need more other tools now. It's like a small drill press (in any case, this is a prerequisite for making wood boards easily).

I have some understanding of the tone of this article, but I also think it is important not to ignore the changes in the environment during the project.

I am still passionate about electronics and start from a background in software programming. A light controlled by the Internet (via ESP8266 and SSR) was just up and running last night. When someone tries to make the leap from breadboards and perforated boards to PCBs, what I want to say is that another difference brought about by the past 20-40 years is the wide variety of components available today. For me, finding new components is the most difficult part of the game. Frankly speaking, Digikey is a nightmare for electronic novices, not because of any problems on the Digikey website, but because of the wide variety of parts. The learning curve must rise from "I need a transistor to complete this project" to "My transistor is facing me in the mail". This is a steep process.

well said.

I etched the PCB because I don’t want to wait a few days/weeks to make my prototype... why wait for several weeks to make the PCB?

Please don't speak for me. You don't know my value, and there is a short reminder: I could have whipped it together in 2 hours after waiting for the circuit board for more than 3 weeks, which is not what I value.

I still make the board because I have something that other boards can't provide...despite your other claims.

"Please don't speak for me. You don't know my value"

It's almost like he is writing hypothetical general readers, not specifically for you.

Really kind of. If you want to make hypotheses about hypothetical readers, then it may be helpful to understand your hypothetical readers. You know the kind of people who get together and do whatever they need to do to get something done right away.

In the author's opinion, I represent more readers on this website. For some reason, any form of construction method is usually cancelled for any reason without knowing that the application will make people feel ashamed to hand over the hacker card.

The imaginary person cannot understand.

Hypothetically. B ^)

Well, I will try this again, but there is no link...obviously, the post here was thrown without warning? I have been using DFRobot [.com] for all my PCB manufacturing and have achieved great success. They are very cheap and do not charge for different colors like some other colors. Their support is unparalleled.

Usually they will enter the mod queue instead of being thrown away. They usually release soon.

Anyone with more than 10 boards, I will consider a board seat. I can only do about 5 at a time, so painting a CNC milling machine is great for me. If I can, I will try to avoid surface mount, because I'd better pass through holes. Using cnc to cut holes and mill the traces will give me a good result, and I have figured out how to make both panels without problems.

Still trying to process my waste in multiple layers... Success makes it difficult for me to understand.

r.. what?

In the UK, the absolute minimum cost of obtaining a single 50x50mm circuit board from dirtypcbs.com is approximately £18.

I can get a 100mmx150mm copper clad laminate for £1.50, including postage. The parts price for the entire project is usually less than 18 pounds. I can buy a whole Raspberry Pi A+ for 18 pounds

Maybe I am missing something, if anyone knows where I can order a small custom PCB for £1.50, I would love to know.

Of course, it is impossible to get cheap PCB prototypes from any board. Recently, there is a very strange method on Hack-a-Day: don't cut it, buy it! And recommend a solution, the price is 2-10 times the price of the DIY solution. Almost everything here is a toy that can be replaced with ready-made substitutes, you can buy and use. I don't understand what it means anymore. Is this a hacker and creator or a "consumer" website? I personally don’t have to remind myself that I don’t have to make anything by myself, but I can buy it.

"Don't chop, buy it!"

I think this is the elephant that has been around for the past few years because we have witnessed the "rise of manufacturers" culture. "Hacking" no longer means anything. It's all about buying prefabricated things, using ready-made services, and randomly tapping a bunch of libraries to replicate the way others make things.

I'm not sure why anyone would be surprised by Brian's articles like this or his response to reasonable criticism, that's what he did.

Oh, this article is now featured on slashdot, and now has an inflammatory comment on how HAD readers responded. I bet it brings a lot of clicks and must make money.

How much is your time worth? If you get the minimum wage, the total of 3 hours will be £18. Personally, I expect not only the minimum wage, but the evaluation of the value of any board of directors I produce is much lower than the evaluation of any board I get from the board.

Well, everyone's time is worth a different price, which is why the package "you should not" is ridiculous.

No matter how much time I spend, to me, electronic equipment is my hobby in my spare time. If I can choose between buying an expensive 100-page novel and a cheap 300-page novel, then I will be less likely to choose a novel with a shorter price because my time is precious.

How much is your waiting time worth? Or the waiting time for your customers? If I have a design on hand that can be easily made in-house, I can complete a circuit board in a few hours or less. The best thing I can do with a random board house (the best circuit board) is more than a week, and adds 65 dollars in cost.

I am just an amateur, so I am my own customer. As a newbie in the electronics industry, I messed up a lot. Usually, I need to try at least twice to solve the problem correctly. Coupled with three weeks of waiting time and $130 out-of-pocket expenses, it will cause you pain. For a simple design prototype, it is difficult for me to justify the PCB service.

On the other hand, once the prototyping is completed and there is no rush, waiting 2-9 weeks may not be a big deal. Of course, you only need to pay $14 USD... Actually, this is really amazing. In fact, I found that the value of $14 has convinced me to start with some PCB business cards.

If I use electronic products as a business or part of my business, and the work I do is beyond my ability, then I will use PCB services crazily.

For many cheap board houses (such as Elecrow, dirtypcbs), you can get "8-10" boards for just over $10, not one, simply because of the way they are manufactured. The wood will be tinned, solder masked, screen printed and drilled.

Obviously, if you don't need the other 7-9, it's a waste, but if you want to use it further, you can. Coupled with taking the time to do something more interesting, it may become valuable to get all these boards in. I only have a few hours a week to work on my project, and it is attractive to spend it on something more creative than drilling.

I haven't mentioned pcbshopper, which is very suitable for shopping.

Yes, in general, I would like to provide insightful advice on some really refreshing alternative technologies, such as smart and cheap (semi-permanent) breadboards or some comprehensive prototyping process, not just "order PCB"-most of us are a bit familiar with this idea, but we still have to thank.

I created my own board because it is a challenge and I am happy to get the job done-this is the point for me. The resolution cycle is shortened, and you can immediately solve the rev2 design problem without running 50 panels. You don't have to pay ridiculous fees for the one-time pick and place they use without the "correct" 5000 reels. You won't get the board house manufacturer's logo, which will ruin the aesthetics of screen printing. If you want to make a one-off prototype board, you will spend ten times the cost yourself. Nothing the production company does is beyond the capabilities of active enthusiasts or even active limited producers.

I have learned to never completely trust others to do your own job. They always mess up somewhere, somewhere.

What happened to art? It's all "give me my ready-made products"... This is sad.

"You don't have to pay a ridiculous fee for using a one-time pick and place without the "correct" 5000 reels."

What is the relationship with ordering PCB?

"You won't get the board house maker's logo to ruin the aesthetics of screen printing."

Correct-because there is no silk screen or solder mask.

If you want to make a one-time prototype board, you will spend ten times the cost yourself. "

Only your time is worthless.

I like to get involved in editorials, but they may be of higher quality.

This is pretty lame, because it doesn't really discuss why people shouldn't do home etching anymore. There are many reasons, but there are also some good reasons for home etching.

One of these reasons is physical size. Cheap circuit board houses will severely penalize large circuit boards, and at home, this is just a matter of ensuring that your craft can handle it (exposure, etchant tank, etc.). In some cases, you need a large and sparsely populated circuit board, which is a use case that can be perfectly realized by home etching.

Boarding time is another reason. No matter what they do, a Chinese board house cannot produce and ship simple PCBs faster than me. I can have an idea today, and tomorrow I can even have a working prototype under a hobby budget. PCBs with fast turnaround are expensive to manufacture.

Another reason is its severe challenges. It is very difficult to arrange high-density boards that can still be made at home. I need much higher skills than the 2-layer plating layout. Of course, this is a disadvantage for beginners and needs to be recognized. If you want to design high-density, professional production may be much less troublesome.

Homemade PCB may also encourage people to finally use reasonable modern components. Since through-hole packaging is difficult to use due to the large amount of drilling involved, it may eventually make hobbyists no longer worry about SMT. SOIC needs to be soldered when walking in the park. Its size is about half of DIP parts. 0805 resistors will not pose a challenge to anyone (on the other hand, capacitors will need some soldering skills due to cracking). Of course, you may not use DSBGA on homemade PCBs, but cheap manufacturers still do not support solder mask defined pads, so you will not use them on cheap boards.

Then, of course, there are peculiar plates. You can buy photosensitive flexible (0.3mm thick, FR4, not polyimide) PCB at a reasonable price. You can buy photosensitive metal core PCB at a reasonable price. These are some special applications. Due to the lack of volume, cheap PCB manufacturers cannot provide you with professionally manufactured boards. They are cheap because they bring together all the content, so if you need something different, you will have to spend a lot of money.

Of course, homemade PCB is difficult to produce, so I usually choose cheap Chinese PCB. However, this decision is made before starting the layout, so I know what design rules I need to follow, what can be done easily and what difficulties are.

Of course, there are some methods of making PCBs at home that people should consider completely obsolete and are not recommended. Isolation milling is one of them: you will need very expensive equipment, it will take a lot of time, it will not even follow the layout you specify, unless you go crazy and wipe all the islets, milling machines are expensive, and the resolution is strict Limit, so it is difficult or almost impossible to use small pitch components. The cost of toner transfer is almost cheap. If you have a laser printer, you only need chemicals, which is very attractive to hobbyists who are just starting out. You can also start again at any point in the process before etching, which may be very good. However, it is very difficult to obtain consistent details, so I find that toner transfer is less and less.

Once the exposure level is determined, consistent high-resolution results can be obtained. Although I prefer 12 million traces, the reduction of the critical part to 6 million is not an unsolvable problem. The output will obviously decrease, so I don't recommend too much. The drill string must be very large, because you usually drill holes after etching, and you must drill holes in the wood board before etching. Drilling after etching has a great risk, and may tear the copper from the substrate, so thin wires need to be added to withstand the strain.

tl; dr: Editorial: Yes, but please ensure reasonable quality. Etching at home: Yes, for speed, material and special applications. Professionally manufactured boards

Good point about oversized boards. I now have a project on the desk, the project has about 12 square inches of chips and connectors, and 4 square inches of capacitive touch sensor. It cost me 170 dollars from OSH Park, and dirtypcbs can't do it. My solution? Use OSH Park as the high-density part ($20) and add a homemade single panel to the touch panel. In addition, the touch panel part is the part most likely to need modification, because it is the main user interface. The best of both worlds.

"Why can you use services like Shapeways for 3D printing?" the nose said high-pitched

We have been researching for several years to study how to make a low-cost robot that can cover the most important tasks of PCB manufacturing in the home. This is difficult and time-consuming, but the actual prototype is: TwinTeeth can spray circuits with UV lasers, drill through holes and holes, distribute solder paste, 3D print covers and knobs, etc. We are still studying how to improve it, and we are designing more tool heads. In any case, I think we should not ask why we are still making PCBs. A better question may be: Why do we still have to make PCBs by hand? There is a further place: Why are we still producing copper PCBs? We are in the silicon age, not the copper age. We should already have a wafer silicon printer in the garage, we can manufacture our own chips or "work centers" near home, and we can send designs to silicon.

When there are so many ready-made toolboxes, why bother to manufacture electronic products?

Come on, why does such nonsense appear on sites like Hackaday. Therefore, it is more practical to order from the board. We got it. Go ahead, use the board or do it yourself. This is your own choice, not this guy!

Reasons why I might create a board of directors:

1)

. Check out decades of electronic project magazines. Did you know that the board accepts PCB mode in PDF format? No, neither do I.

2) Get ready today. All these people are waiting for the process of the board...building...testing...resolving design errors...repeat...I don't understand what you mean! You can only wait a few days at most for each iteration! Wait.. Keep this idea.. Why do people want to prototype on the PCB in the first place? Seriously invest in breadboards and through-hole components. Of course, some things can only be surface mounted. Make the breakout board. Seriously.. Prototype on custom PCB.. That's not a prototype! Okay.. if this is a microwave RF project. That's all I want to give you. Oh...and the radio frequency of sub-microwave frequency.. Learn about Manhattan's construction. You do not need to customize the PCB. Save it as a finished product.

3) Because it is DIY. If we want something pre-made, we can get it from Best Buy!

Regarding point 1-thanks for the link!

> If you can convert PDF to BMP, you can import it into Eagle. From there, you can export Gerber or anything else you want.

There is a pdf to gerber converter, but it expects that the vector input will not be raster input (ie scanned image).

How to use some non-chemical methods to manufacture PCB? More dremmels on rapraps!

One of the reasons why I make planks at home is time. I have been using OSHPark, but I have to wait 10 to 14 days to get my motherboard back (unless I have to pay for super fast service). Sometimes, I just have an idea and want a prototype. It was very satisfying to change from an idea to a working prototype within an hour...

After circuit boards are no longer used to assemble commercial products, electronics hobbyists will continue to manufacture circuit boards at home for a long time. The worn-out sharp tools I collected by myself prove that the era of homemade handmade cardboard is far from over, but I admit that there are excellent manufacturers who will be happy to do great things and make you out of the green while waiting. The wonderful colors and through-holes make you dazzled. The time has come for those who are not sharp enough, but board seats may not be of any use.

I'm just waiting for the genius of $$, or a garage full of children, to provide us with "killer products" to ease the pain of homemade PCb manufacturers and become rich.

USELESS article. I doubt if anyone does not know that you can build the PCB for you. For some people who are still persevering, what might make a difference is information about where you can get your work done cheaply, and information about how cheaply. Leaving this to the commenter is latent.

To others: If you are so picky about the aesthetics of the finished board, do you really think you can get a better appearance from the PCB factory than the beautiful purple solder resist provided by OSH Park? It's true: buy three copies from OSH Park at a price of $5 per square foot, and for large boards, or even dirtpcbs (dot com), for lower prices, it is really difficult to buy them in the store. If I need it faster than two weeks, it can be thoroughly debugged/debugged (and can be r

This is the first part of a series of articles on secure communication:

1. 

(This article)

2. 

3.

Use a Zener diode to generate an avalanche noise signal, and then use a differential amplifier (and some analog filters) to eliminate deterministic effects. The noise signal is captured by ATTiny2313 and sent to the FAT32 SD card as a meaningless hexadecimal number sequence. I tested the random number sequence in MATLAB to check the randomness. I designed and made a prototype PCB (you can check the size by viewing its size in natural size in the attached photo and the PCB layout in the .pdf. In the same .pdf file, my nixie-VFD guitar tuning The device is still not finished PCB, natural size). The design of this RNG uses cheap and ubiquitous components and still creates a random sequence with good randomness. I tried all known methods of analyzing random sequences. If you know more about the mathematical methods of checking the randomness of a sequence, you might be interested in checking it yourself. I drew the circuit schematic on paper.

A correction filter has been added to RNG3 (simplified RNG2 without boost converter, powered by 2 9V batteries) to equalize the frequency of the original 8-bit random value-now RNG4 on the perfboard. In order to simplify the adjustment of the analog filter, a simple spectrum analyzer with ATmega8 and 2x16 LCD was designed and tested.

The final version is RNG5, which will be published in Elektor magazine along with the accompanying Bit Stream Analyser.

Random numbers are used for encryption, games and

 (Search documentation for RNG). They can also be used

.

Watch this video to learn how to properly adjust the random number generator.

Please enter your email address. Instructions for resetting your password will now be emailed to you.

Already have an Elektor ID account?

he

Together with BC548, it is another most commonly used transistor. Therefore, if you like DIY and are a manufacturer, you will definitely need one of these devices at some point. In this case, PN2222 is a low-power silicon transistor designed for linear amplification and switching applications.

The reason for this demand is that in addition to being able to work at medium high frequencies, it is also good at amplifying small currents and small or medium voltages. This means it has a

And in

. Those who will know know that it is one of the transistors used in the construction of the BITX transceiver, or that it allowed the Norcal ham radio club in 1999 to launch a challenge to construct a radio transceiver with only 22 transistors of this type without any Type of transistor. Attach IC.

Like BC548, it is manufactured using an epitaxial process. This is also a transistor

. At present, it usually has several possible packaging, such as plastic TO-92 (usually the most common packaging method) and other packaging (such as TO-18, SOT-23, SOT-223, etc.).

index

Such as

The reason for the name is that we discussed the device, so I want to give a very brief introduction to the concept and history of the transistor. A transistor is just a device similar to a switch and has the ability to amplify signals. In other words, they are substitutes for the original vacuum tubes or vacuum valves, which have caused many problems.

These valves are similar to traditional light bulbs, so they may burst and need to be replaced frequently. They are also large and do not allow the creation of small devices. The heat they generate is another problem. With the arrival

, which is

, Making the manufacture of this type of equipment cheaper, reduced and reliable.

The name of the transistor comes from

, Which is the transmission resistance in English. Remember, resistance is resistance. In addition, as you know, this invention appeared in Europe as the first patent of the physicist Lilienfeld (1925). It is advanced to some extent because they did not find any practical applications in that decade or the next, and it is still a field effect transistor, even more advanced than a bipolar transistor.

Oskar Heil also manufactured similar equipment in Germany in 1934. Later, Robert Pohl and Rudolf Hilsch will also conduct collaborations in a university in Germany. Experiments related to this equipment. Almost parallel, in the United States

They also did not conduct successful experiments until the fate of the Second World War changed. When they returned from the European battlefield, they proposed the idea of ​​"reorganization" and proposed a solution.

They obtained the first transistor patent in history and won the Nobel Prize, thereby gaining recognition. In 1948, they invented the contact transistor, which is a very large, very awkward and impractical device. It is expensive to manufacture, sometimes fails and must be relocated in some cases. From then on, they will evolve into current transistors.

But if you want to know

It is this device

This is a GIF with a metaphor of a transistor and a hydraulic system, I think you will find a better example than this one to capture how the transistor works:

It can be seen that when current is supplied to the base of the NPN transistor, the current flows from the collector to the emitter. But it does zoom in because if you look at the image, the water flow from the base and collector is added. Is an

Very simple, although you should replace water with electrons in electronic systems...

If you want to see a more enlightening image from the operational point of view of the semiconductor area, namely

, Here you have another picture:

As you can see in the image, when a negative voltage is applied to the emitter, it will push negative charge carriers (electrons), while at the bottom it will "absorb" positive charge carriers (holes)

...

if

This will be similar, but change the polarization or the way the transistor is connected.

2N2222 or PN2222 often

, Although we can also find other manufacturers, such as Fairchild Semiconductor, Siemens, COMSET Semiconductor, SEMICOA, etc. with a long history. is having a

.

2N2222A is

Due to its robustness, acceptable temperature range and other characteristics, and qualified for military applications (MIL-STD). If we look at the data sheets provided by these structures, the characteristics we will find in this transistor are:

A kind

, Usually a PDF, which contains detailed features of the electronic device. They are created by manufacturers with their own product characteristics. Therefore, we can find that the two data sheets of 2n2222 from different manufacturers do not have the same parameters. Here you can download some of them:

This guide applies to 2N222 or PN2222.

The content of this article follows our principles

. To report a bug, click

The full path of the article:

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this is amazing!

No matter where you are, thank you very much, the excellent response is helping me.

I have been looking for excellent information. This is the research work I have been looking for. I hope I can find more transistors here.

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