100 ohm smd resistor

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Since parts can be obtained easily and cheaply through Internet mail order, it is easy to forget that buying electronic parts used to be a tedious process, and salvaged parts are usually used because they are what you own. Now, it may be a thing of the past to find the right resistor from the trash can TV to scrub the panel, but that is not all. [Ryan Flowers] Fortunately, he scored a box of old CB radios in a garage auction.

Looking for parts, he can use to make QRP amateur radio devices. In-depth study of aging electronic products is on our street!

One possibility for 27 MHz CB rigs is to convert them to the adjacent 10 m amateur band, but since these are AM rigs, this mode is rarely used by amateurs, so it is better to separate them. With the development of radio design, this is an interesting study because it reveals a completely analog design composed mainly of discrete components.

After carefully checking the photos, we found that Fairchild Semiconductor’s uA703 5-transistor IF amplifier chip is contained in a metal can, but this is as advanced as its technology. Unexpectedly, there are a large number of crystals instead of becoming a standard frequency synthesizer only a few years later.

He took away the case, switch and potentiometer, as well as the RF inductor and crystal from the PCB. Those tiny Toko inductors were once common, but now they are rare. If you like semiconductors in this era

, Where uA703

.

This is not nonsense at all, I have been doing it for 25 years... and still working hard!

Similarly, although it has been 22 years. I am 28 years old.

There are still boxes and boxes full of PCBs: old test equipment, medical equipment, PPE (gas detector), a bucket (Arm7 MCU) filled with a temperature recorder. A little bit of each :)

Recently, I bought some LM350 adjustable voltage regulators online. You used to buy them for about US$3.00, but I was shocked to find that they now cost about US$50.00 from Mouser, Jameco, etc.! WTF happened! Obviously, they must be in short supply and may not be manufactured anymore, so the price is too high!

Almost any part in the TO3 package you want is overpriced. They need too much work to put it in metal packaging.

Thanks for the information Roger! I don't know that fact. When I found out that the cheap, $2.00 LM350K TO3 is now on sale for $50.00, I damnably dropped the chair! I canned the bombed LM350K into cans and replaced them with TO-220 boxed LM317, because I don’t need much current because it is part of my self-made adjustable DC power supply, which I used for electroplating Built of silver. It can work perfectly with cheap and large quantity of LM317. Take care!

I have LM350 tube in TO220. I want to know if I can Ebay?

I suggest putting them on Ebay, you may be surprised by their supply!

Oh, wait, to220 is 2 dollars, and TO3 is 60 dollars. Get a good heat sink...

Yes, of course, I need TO3 package of LM350K. Because I don't need high current, I only use LM317 to solve it. I built an adjustable DC power supply for silver plating. It is flawless! I originally used LM350K to build it because that was what I had at the time, but when it became trivial, I found that I could replace it just by ordering another one. At that time I found that the price soared to $50.00! I found LM317 in the parts storage area, and instead, everything is fine and it works great! Take care brother!

LM350 is an ancient part. Use smaller regulators to drive large MOSFETs. You can now find that they have an on-resistance of 1 milliohm, which is approximately equal to the PCB trace.

Chances are, if you are using a large LM350, you don't have to worry about I*R falling.

For MOSFETs, what you are looking for is not the lowest Ron, but the Ron with the highest SOA rating. Low Ron devices are designed for direct on/off switching and do not need to have a large die to handle the heat required by linear circuits.

Calm children will use a switch to handle most of the voltage drop, and only use the LDO to maintain the final voltage of about 1V, so put the power supply in a much more usable TO220 or eqv package for control.

The LM350 crowd will not get caught up in complicated circuits, nor will they understand better parts. They will be better by sharing a bunch of old LM317 currents in TO220 or Boost current with external power transistors.

Thank you for providing tips on using LM317 and MOSFET! I am grateful! Yes, you can definitely choose other methods from the price of LM350K of $50.00! From this price, I suspect they are outdated. Thanks again!

Also here, I live in a very remote place and it is difficult to get parts. I have to wait, I don’t like waiting for 4-5 days each time. In addition, I like to save money. Therefore, when I was very young I started to disassemble electronic products (although not long ago), and then clean the parts, and sometimes I get something useful/cool. However, I have to buy some things. Can't I just find z80 and some EEPROM in the old microwave oven now?

This is the only way that I or anyone I know can afford electronics. When you can order soldering equipment specifically designed to remove items from the board, and often treat the board as a dispensable thing, there is almost no crash. Sometimes, if it has a particularly useful function, we will even put in more effort to save the whole or part of the circuit board. I have an LED controller, from a bad TV I have used to random LED things, this is a great simple controller, suitable for all kinds of weird configurations.

I need to do this because I don’t have money, but it helps or reflects my electronic knowledge.

The first few projects I tried failed. I copied the parts list and went to the store, unable to "buy it cheaply". They did not work.

I suspect that many of the reasons are my lack of soldering skills, but I know so little that I don’t know whether the pin arrangement is the same as that of the product, or whether the general-purpose transistor they sold to me is suitable.

The first thing that works is the code practice oscillator, the tge leads are just twisted together. But the parts came from extra boards I bought cheaply, and I cut the boards to remove the parts. Then there is a crystal oscillator.

The difference is that at that time I knew enough about alternatives, and my fear of "making mistakes" was reduced, so I could invest in it.

After that, I was always at a loss, although sometimes I had to buy some parts because I couldn't find them. I know that a few years later, other children in school became interested in this, and I told them to specify 1/2 watt resistors because they are most commonly used. Another person spent a lot of money on the HEP replacement series of operational amplifiers. When I pointed out the cheaper alternatives, he did say "I don't want to make mistakes."

I almost always look at the schematic and think about which parts I can replace or how to change it to fit my parts. It comes from understanding.

In the 70s, for me, most of them were old TVs, some of which were equipped with valves, although my best teenagers found were early varactors (obviously in later models). I still remember the stench of phenolic paper PCB when heated.

Oh yes, it's so memorable!

My mother hates that smell

My father used a 75W Weller gun model for desoldering to heat. This is a method my father used to make vacuum tube launchers in the 1950s. It is a method to release the phenolic aroma. If the bugs are spared, another method It is to pass the power of 4-5W through 1 / before understanding the power consumption, use the power of 2W. good time!

What is the smell of the old flux core? When I was repairing things from the 70s, since I was a kid playing with electronics, I immediately felt back in time. It is not leaded solder, because I also used it today (lead-free solder sucks), it is an old flux core, probably rosin.

My method is to use a Bernz-O-Matic blow gun and use pliers to pull out the components. This is too smelly to be done in the house, so it is mainly for outdoor summer activities. If there are precision components, of course I will use a soldering iron. My first good desktop tool is the Weller WCTPN soldering station, which works many times better than the Radio Shack pencil soldering iron. In addition, bite-sized and rolled cores are also useful.

The early 1970s was the heyday of eroding old electronic products. Many things are made of common parts, which are easily found in Signetics, Fairchild or National manuals. When I was in high school, I used to buy stack boards from Data General, Burroughs, Mohawk Data Sciences, etc. for free on Dayton Hamvention. I can still pull many parts from those boards in the parts cabinet, although I might throw away the DTL IC at this time.

Considering all application-specific and surface-mount parts, it is becoming more and more difficult to find parts that are easy to produce, although I recently found a Chinese iPod FM modulator at a discount store for $1. The parts are cheap. Hole frequency synthesizer chip that can be reused,

When I was a kid, I could purchase all kinds of cool surplus items through mail order, such as PCBs taken from obsolete computers. These parts I have used before, and also used in obsolete military aircraft and complete military radios. The brand new box spare parts.

Even in the late 1960s, there was still a large military surplus from the Second World War and the Korean War, perhaps due to the need for new weapons during the Vietnam War, which led to an oversupply of military stocks.

For example, I bought a brand new boxed compressed air-driven gyroscope from a World War II bomber (although I am not sure which one, but I think it is a B-17 bomber), it has almost none. It is a kind of precision mechanical jewelry.

This is the armaments I bought. I read that they went bankrupt in 1988:

Meshna Surplus Specials: "Our 84-page catalog is crowded with exotic, unusual electronic and optical equipment purchased from the government and other sources."

sad:

Remaining death

December 7, 2015

Satellite electronics on Vancouver's main streets in the 1980s

Oscilloscope and oscilloscope repair, chart recorder with excellent galvanometer for laser show.

At RP electronics, I got a 20,000 volt high-precision power supply. Something amazing. It can be set to 0.00v 20 20,000.99v! It has a huge vacuum tube rectifier. For my Plasma Scientific 2mw He Ne laser, this is too violent. When I have to slide from 15,000 to 2000, you should have seen sparks because the tube needs to trigger a spike, and the PS is not designed for this!

Both locations have a large number of wire-wound circuits from scrapped rack-mounted computer systems. I have never bought new winding supplies. I am actually engaged in the business of custom circuits. This does not require me to spend any money to build, except that the chips and components and a circuit board full of 12 inches x 6 inches are 2 dollars each!

good time.

Oh yeah. Certain other resins etc. seem to add to the familiar smell of analog electronic products in the 70s and early 80s. I still remember it myself.

I will reuse and rewind damaged ATX PSU and other SMPS transformers from time to time. I even make "transformer soup" to unlock the core. I reused some of the magnet wires in the large iron core PFC chokes included in the PSU...

Sometimes I reuse resistors and capacitors, and when I don’t have stock, I save all transistors, ICs, switches, many connectors, and all other valuable things...

I also removed the magnetism of the ATX PSU.

Lol @"transformer soup"... can I get that recipe?

Yes, you can!

You can start with a few transformers, re-soldering them, or use the mature transformers from the parts box. Tear off the tape holding the two core halves and use a sharp thin knife to cut or remove any visible resin holding it to the bobbin. Place the transformers in a small pot and pour enough water to cover them. Transformers should stand on their laps. Bring the pot to a boil, then simmer for 5-15 minutes. Use pliers or other tools to pick a transformer, place it on a dry cloth, and then pass half of the core through it. Try to separate them from the bobbin first, and then pull them apart. Gentle but firm, because it easily breaks the ferrite. If you can't separate them yet, put the transformer back in the pot and pick another one. If you remove half but the other one will not loosen, put the transformer back for a few minutes, then take it out, grasp the bobbin, and then use narrow pliers or other tools to pass the core through the center hole of the bobbin.

Transformer soup does not require seasoning. Service cold...

"Not suitable for microwave cooking"?

This was common in my university in the early nineties. They have donated pcb racks. We often clean the parts of the project.

I don't remember ever seeing the RS catalog. If we have to buy parts from Maplin or RadioShack, there will be no money, so less beer money...

I started to do this around 1959. Neighbors will give me their shabby TV and radio. By 1960, a neighbor paid me to repair his TV when I was 12 years old.

New parts are cheaper on many levels. To find the parts, you have to spend time looking for the right PCB, have time to get the parts from the circuit board, pray that the heat will not damage it, and ultimately you are not even sure whether the part is qualified or there are some potential failures after several years of aging . Original use.

Of course, for rare parts or rare/expensive parts, this makes sense, but otherwise it will waste time and you can use it better.

Not necessarily true. You can learn a lot by playing with old PCBs. In addition, not everyone can order components from China, so removal is their only option. I personally like to remove the components from the old trash. This is therapeutic and there is always some value in reusing/recycling things that would otherwise be discarded. It is not always necessary to absolutely optimize everything. Sometimes the game itself has value. But I want to treat everyone...

Large-scale disassembly and assembly with a spray gun is very fast, which may cause some stubborn parts to be injured or killed, and the grounding marks on the pins are obvious. I will sort and inspect the parts during disassembly, and I agree that the process of digging a box of wooden boards to find specific parts during the project is time-consuming and frustrating. A certain degree of random disassembly may also lead to potential failures, and such failures will not be immediately apparent. If there are important things, I will use new parts.

I collected old parts from TV and radio. They come in handy... part of it is sympathetic repair of old test equipment and professional music equipment (many 350v, 450v capacitors, ECC83 valves, high-power resistors, etc.), while the other part is dekatron and nixies. I have never been to amateur radio broadcasting-my head turned to audio and music equipment at a very young age, but I collected a lot from one person and only recently passed it. Now, I have multi-blade tuning caps, plug-in crystals, a large number of valves and power transistors, diodes, moving coil meters, coils, N-type connectors... I realize that one thing we missed with modern electronic technology is color , And various finishes, shapes and sizes. I have large resistive encoders, large polyester and polycarbonate capacitors, large bright electrolytic capacitors, TO3 power transistors, and highly polished housings (please show these transistors!). With such resources, to say the least, it becomes easier to find the right parts to repair an old electronic valve guitar amplifier.

Hi Nick! I have been working as an amateur radio operator for 43 years and I like to build my own equipment, especially RF power amplifiers. It sounds like your inherited library may contain some larger, transmitting or even smaller "fine-tuning" models. Air variable capacitor. I would love to know what you have, transmission tubes, variable air capacitors, roller inductors, etc.! Thank you very much for getting in touch with you! Since I don't have enough budget to buy new components, I have been struggling throughout my life with the radio, so I redistributed all my energy to me. Thank you! Best wishes!

Yes, addiction! When I was in my twenties, my Gran provided me with a working Philips AM/FM radio with six short-wave bands, and I couldn't help but disassemble its air gap tuning capacitor. Still regretted decades later.

We have all done stupid things, for example, when we were young and unwise, I also felt sorry. Lol!

Minivac 601, bc, you know, just sitting on that Bakelite panel like that, these DPDT relays are not accessible enough. FFS what am I thinking.

We all did it. Many historic radios died under my ten-year-old hand.

I learned something from it, which made me who I am now.

For those who are interested in electronic products, removing garbage electronic products is a useful effort. Worked in the field of industrial electronics for many years.

First of all, simply stripping off the therapeutic value of electronic components cannot be regarded as a way of relaxation. Disassembling the old electronic equipment and then unsoldering it from the PCB can maintain manual skills and require almost no effort. Then, some equipment or other equipment aroused your interest, and you searched on the Internet and found its data sheet, so you carefully extract it for future use. In strange situations, the entire project was found to be too interesting or potentially useful to be broken down into parts immediately, so it tried to repair it. Most of my home test equipment is purchased this way.

^^^Yes, this ^^^

Space forces me to stop grabbing roadside things like before, but disassembling some things and letting certain parts or subassemblies arouse my interest is still somewhat therapeutic and practical. I now have a lot of parts, enough to handle many repairs and projects, and I have almost everything on hand.

I have no rework skills or eyeballs to process today's surface mount products, and I do like the availability and low prices of all SBCs and other available modules today, so electronic removal may be an endangered art.

The thing to consider is that bed bugs like warm dark places. A roadside TV might be equipped with a six-legged traveler. Ah! Please check carefully before dragging it inside. Smoker-owned televisions emit unpleasant brown tobacco smoke residues on everything, especially the most unpopular CRT high-voltage lead. I have repaired a few TVs for my family and friends who smoke. It's hard to make smoker's residue smell. It's hard.

The problem with newly purchased components is their quality! All the components are from China, this is where we live, and most of the components are of very poor quality! The output transistor is the biggest problem! Totally underestimated, made in China! Therefore, I only use the original old quality components!

On Hackerspace, we did some heat gun tests on the old motherboard. Just shake the motherboard and the components will fall.

Oh, paint remover hot air gun == portable instant reflow device? Uh uh uh...

Make sure to get a heater with 2 heating settings (high and low). The lowest temperature will be around 250°C, you can use it carefully to reflow BGA etc. However, the more precise and controlled mechanical pencil is now only twice as expensive as the cheaper "paint stripper" heat gun.

In the first wave of lead-free soldering issues for laptop GPUs and chipsets, I used one of them for some operations. I actually have a hand-held drill that can insert the heat gun nicely into it. So I had it, and then I made a tin foil protective cover with a hole for the chip to be processed, and basically sat there for 10 minutes, and then waved around the IR thermometer like I knew what I was doing (Ok, I’m checking if the chip temperature is higher than 220C, and it’s not much higher than this.) The method is as effective as many other methods, giving you months of repair time, but only reassembly can really improve This method.

One of the most interesting things I learned a few years ago was to use a hot air gun to desolder parts. My recent attempts have left me with 5 (another messy) 62-pin edge card slots, and many more on the board. It does require some practice, so before trying the garbage game, please practice garbage first. Many times, these components will not fall out completely without any prying, but when it happens, it is quite satisfactory.

This is how to teach me how to solder by learning desoldering. By the time I started elsewhere, I was already very good at it. Oh, let's say this annoys people when I am outside school.

Before the "wheeled trash can," rubbish was scattered and piled up on the streets or placed in black bags. When I was a child, I used to ride a bicycle nearby on garbage collection days, then drag old TV sets and valve radios to my home, then disassemble and store them. I didn’t have the knowledge to use components at the time, but this might be how I was interested in electronics

I really thought this would be an article about miniaturization.

I have been doing less and less cleaning work, because these parts are getting smaller and smaller, and their use in hand-etched designs is also less and less, not to mention from more analog input solutions to digital switches. Mainly converted.

Even with all the appropriate tools, the time required to recover parts using SMD components and my personal conversion scrap rate are significantly higher than through-hole components. So yes, ordering a new product is more valuable than disposing of an old 0805 resistor, and when I reuse it, these spacers will fall off.

I'm used to soldering SOT-23 transistors (hint: rotate them 45 degrees when soldering to a 0.1 inch performance circuit board), but the most difficult part is determining the damn thing. Usually there are only 2 or 3 letters, some of which are dual diodes. However, if you are lucky, they will be in the list you can find.

I used to work in a place with several pick-and-place machines, and I think I did something right for a person, because when he vacuumed once every few months, he would leave random parts bags on my desk. There is nothing more crazy than trying to classify various components. I call the smallest particle "coarse sand", which is only slightly larger than the coarse sand. This is another form of removal, but it is still interesting. I sorted out a few dime SOT-23 transistors. I tried to make a project with some people. Real life prevents me from completing the work, but I do understand that I can solder SOT-23 by hand.

In the late 1970s, in order to get rid of cheap surplus boards for ICs, I found it easier to use propane torches. In this way, the parts can be removed within a few seconds, thereby minimizing the heat of the chip, but it can well damage the PCB. If they look useful, I still free them from the exhaust gas. High quality (low ESR) caps are expensive. Also, if a piece of equipment has a nice smooth action toggle switch, then I can’t throw it away! If it’s an iPhone, I just run the coaster app on it and put it on the coffee table.

I collected all kinds of old mobile phones from that thrift store. (After more than a month of lock-in, I am really happy.) Next week, I will introduce them to see if they can be used as a camera for making youtube videos to record projects. Basically set them to a fixed angle, start rotating them, and then copy the video and edit it when finished. I hope at least one or two of them are useful.

In Los Angeles, we are lucky to have several "electronic surplus" sockets, which are already filled with components that have been separated. I admit that this eliminates the trouble of destroying discarded or idle "gadgets". If this epidemic disappears, TRW Electronics/Ham Radio Exchange Conference will resume.

The surplus shrank severely elsewhere. Cali may be its last place to survive in North America.

I am currently mourning the exchange meeting I did not go to this weekend.

Indeed, the surplus is disappearing. Not long ago, a local aircraft manufacturer ran a "surplus" building, and it was a pleasure to select specialized tools and exotic materials with ease. Who knows, it might be used in one day. For now, the best local (Los Angeles County) is Cal Aero Supply at 13840 Paramount Blvd, Paramount, California. (Google it) They sell tools in pounds sterling. (Drills, taps, etc.) Screws, bolts, nuts, in pounds, yes, some stocks are typical "port freight" items, but hovering in the rear for real enjoyment.

As for the surplus of electronic equipment, please go north to the valley. All Electronics, 14928 Oxnard St

Van Nuys, California 91411

Yes from

several times. I don't think they will put anything less than 20 items on the website, or list really obscure things, so the actual location might be more interesting.

Yes, it must be visited. It is hard to believe the available inventory levels.

5 years ago, (I spent my whole life in a retail store), I forced my grandson to visit all the surplus stores in Los Angeles and Orange County. It took a whole day, but he was surprised by the appearance of "Stuff".

He used this information to support his college courses, where he was building "cube satellites" and 3D printed rocket engines, and now he has dropped out of school and repaired computers on cruise ships and submarines. In terms of swaps, TRW is the grandfather of everyone. But, like everything, it is slowing down. Now it is waiting for the virus to stop. (

) The "cool" product I bought last time was the World War II high-speed 35mm high-speed gun camera in the original box. (Shhh, don't tell my wife) I doubt I will try to make it into a lamp or something. Maybe the background object of my video podcast. Last year TRW offered two missile gyroscopes for sale, but even though they were super cool, I passed them.

God, save any air variable caps you encounter! I think they are not difficult to make, and most people will not be useful to them, but I don't think they make them the same as before!

High-quality bottle caps are actually still available, but even Chinese caps are easily sold for $10-15-so saving them is worth it.

But up to now, the equipment with variable air caps has also begun to have a long history.

I thought the article cited by tye looks very fictitious. He found a set of circuit breakers, but was excited about common parts. This is something I noticed elsewhere, anyone can post it, but it does not mean the best information.

I have posted a long reply there, suggesting something better that can be learned, but I also suggest that for some esoteric parts, it is best to keep them intact, because the circuit board will provide the data of these parts and how to use them they. In addition, sometimes when using electronic parts, you may need the original circuit block, so it is best to also cut off this area of ​​the circuit board (if it is not a separate module).

This is a good comment.

Without the rest of the circuit, it will be difficult to separate the oscillator coil from the RF tuning coil and everything else.

I once took apart a radio and did not restore it, but carefully marked the names of all the different coils in the circuit. Therefore, I have [radio model, component name] IF coil 452KHz attached to the jar.

Of course, you can put the coil in the oscillator circuit and see what its span is, but this is a lot of extra work. Due to the presence of radio frequency shields, it is difficult to check them with a micrometer.

I haven't really had a "harvest" meeting in a while. When I was a kid, AM radio seemed very rich, so my first project had many points. Then in the millennium or so, I had a little understanding of VCR, the output and variety looked good, and in the end it did not deal with too much awkward garbage like CRT. Then we encountered the disaster of capacitors. I used a large number of motherboards as organ donors for other motherboards. But, last time, I tend to choose them according to your needs.

However, a few times, I had a "part" thing, and then I found it interesting in itself. There is some kind of S-100 board. Galaga arcade board. I haven't found a motherboard with 8088, please continue to try if you want to peel it off or try to run it somehow.

For me, the motherboard is an important source of surface moutn MOSFETs, some are 12amp or higher, usually 3 to 5

In the 1990s, I bought a small hanging basket with Pcop-11 board (single width, with two edge connectors) in a thrift store. I think one of them is a UART board, but there is nothing more special than a CPU or memory board, otherwise I might care more.

In the early 1990s, when I was a teenager, I encountered an adventure story. My grandfather’s microwave oven is broken-a micro switch somewhere is malfunctioning. It sat in our basement for a while. A few years later, a colleague of my father brought a broken Amiga 500 and several Epyx 500XJ joysticks. He started looking for parts, then kept a low profile, and found that the 500XJ used the same micro switch as the microwave. I took that microwave oven to college... I remember telling my roommate this story. One of them said: "This shift must make 1988 "Switch Journal" an editor's choice."

I changed the door switch 3 times on the old (now retired) microwave oven.

Alternatives come from various donors. The other switches of the door did not malfunction.

I do this for work (automotive electrician), such as repairing electronic organs, etc., sometimes driving chips/FETs or anything that is difficult to purchase with reasonable quality. Therefore, I try to keep stocks of some good donors of common boards. Fortunately, most manufacturers usually either dice the internal parts of their ECUs or throw the dice on potentially junk parts from China. . I am sure that the repair locations of mobile phones/laptops/game consoles are the same, there are many proprietary things.

All the things I used to do when I was a kid (old radio, TV, etc.) were caused by getting parts, because I can’t afford new parts for the project, I have to say that surface mount things are easier to rebuild once I get the know-how use.

About ten years ago, I reinstalled the ECU on Suzuki.

*Clear...

I stopped doing this a few years ago and spent hours rooting in useless outdated consumer trash to find a 7-cent transistor,

It's the same for me. Of course, if you happen to need some rare or hard-to-find components, and happen to need these scraps, but apart from "meh", my position is the same.

My problem is to know when not to salvage what, let it go. "I will use it someday" quickly became "I must get rid of all this nonsense".

My neighbor who grew up had a "garbage day" every year. My father went shopping with me. The amazing things that people throw out only need some adjustments here or there, otherwise we peeled it off and used it for test tubes, spent a few hours on the bench for test tubes, and thus inherited the humidor, except for me Indeed throw away all 1B3. I bought my first recording device in this way before I was in the second grade. It was a well-functioning Webster recorder with extra spools. The old garrard and BSR turntables were once a complete wooden stereo speaker, and everything is still inside. Speaker Jason, this is interesting.

I cannot tell you how many items have been thrown away because of the thermal fuse that I replaced and sold to make a profit. At the age of 12, my mother bought me a set of Encyclopedia of Popular Mechanics. Since then, all my knowledge of electromechanics has been popularized. I got a degree in mechanical engineering, but I have always been rooted in electronics. I should have been a double major. Today I am still looking for food, and my wife thinks I am addicted. I only accept useful things. true!

Everyone should have 3 sets, namely 50s version, 60s version and 70s version. Skip the 80s (eventually?), this was a problem with magazines at the time, it was a "how do we spend money" publication, not how to do things. There are also popular scientific and practical handymen worth mentioning.

I still have some boxes, they were cleaned in the 50s and 60s. Does anyone need a selenium rectifier?

Most things are no longer worthy of scrap, but every month I will dispose of the rubbish at our local garbage collection office. There must be something worth scrapping here. There, I opened up the entire through-hole life cycle monitor in the 90s (a lot of electro-pneumatic parts, expensive instrument lights, to3 volt reference voltage, etc.), several desktop power supplies, and a hp200a Audio oscillators, and many other things that can be fixed or equipped with high-end mysterious parts.

Well, I believe that we are at a time when parts one by one disappear from our eyes due to miniaturization. PCB space is left to store more and more dedicated ICs. These ICs are more difficult to inspect and reuse. It is difficult to find a home in another device.

Looking to the future, I believe there is "thing" only in the nonsense of the entity level. From a weird point of view, today's through hole is a wooden board. In this direction, the new trend of circularity has some very interesting concepts. With a lot of engineering work and social interest, these concepts can lead to more standardized, separable, repairable and reusable equipment. But the reality on the ground seems to be different.

There are "11m" CBs with SSB in the United States...Despite the common noise in this frequency band, I even made an incredible 1,000-mile contact with a back during the solar cycle in the 90s. Changing the IF of one of these units is not much different from the more common-mode CB-at least as far as the older model is concerned. Modern units use chip-based oscillators, which are more difficult to modify in most cases. The real problem is that in the past few decades, the 10m band of DX has died out. This is due to long-term sunless conditions, which are extremely active during this period.

Haha nope. not dead. Whenever I need a switch or similar thing like a prototype or a singular project that doesn't require ten things, I often use a hoarded parts warehouse.

I cleaned an ISA debug board from an old computer. It has 5 TIL311 and some other goodies. I also found 33 am27c4096 EPROMs during dumpsterdiving.

Like a treasure hunt

After taking it out of the box, I have started storing the PCB. They take up less space and it is easier to identify the parts if you have the entire circuit board.

I did shoot many parts on some old telecommunications boards with a propane torch by tapping the end of the board hard to loosen the parts. It works, but it's not as good as I wanted. For this, I do need to make bumpers to clamp on the board.

DIP is the challenge of effective removal. I am still looking for a better way. I am very disappointed with the desoldering gun. The remaining solder is enough to keep the material in place.

Yes, part of my comment on the original site was to keep the board intact.

On the other hand, once I started to carry some tools to strip the e-waste, I saw it waiting for a garbage truck. It is easier to grab a power transformer or variable capacitor than to drag the whole thing home. Or turn on the computer to get memory, hard drives or exotic peripheral boards.

Sadly, I see less and less e-waste in the dump or garage. I think this will be waste collection. As someone once suggested, this collection will ensure that people buy new products.

Before I waste things (VCR, DVD, etc.), I take them apart. Then, I only need to pay a higher return fee for the circuit board itself and a lower rate for the rest of the circuit boards. They did not charge me for direct entry into the metal bin.

I have always wanted to make a tool for DIP. I can see something like two miniature claw hammers, used for the curved part of the claw hammers, connecting those claw hammers to two arms and a handle, so when you push it, they roll together and pull up. Or just a better chip puller. I used the ISA slot punching mechanism to become a spring clamp type, which can take out some RAM chips at a time, but its size is just right, so it is not very useful for anything else. Like some SOJs, it won't help if the damn thing is abused on the board.

However, it is best to use a suction cup to fix it end by pin. It is usually best to use the tip of the soldering iron from the side and align the suction cup exactly to the top of the pin before triggering. Then they will usually become very clean. If not, row down and "flat" each with iron, which will break the connection. If your hole is too tight with large rivets, it seems too narrow to suck in... Then sometimes the only way is to pull the chip upwards about a millimeter at a time until it moves the chip upwards. Come out immediately. Heat, lift one side, heat the other side, lift, repeat. When one of my techniques is worn with a 30W iron soldering iron, I cut it off, then cut it open, and cut a one-inch-wide triangular copper sheet into it, then drilled a small hole, and then fixed it with a small bolt it. Now, it is a pin heater/slicer/bulldozer for some awkward things. Either heat a row of pins at a time, lift one side of the SOJ at a time, or push away some small Rs and Cs.

The quick chip test has helped me remove the bad IC several times, but please clean the circuit board thoroughly before trying to install a replacement product.

The county’s state parks have 1920s farms, houses, and outbuildings. We provide piano players, which are typical digital music players today. My boss restored the finish of the battery radio and grill cloth in the front hall. It lacks knobs, molded Moderne style. The monkey ward has been around for a while. I looked at a box of old radio and TV knobs with a preserved treasure in it that matched the missing knob. Once on the broadcast, okay! Back to Indiana again.

Don't ignore the possibility of using existing knobs to make silicone or Bondo molds and casting epoxy replicas for missing knobs.

As seen on Hackaday(TM) servers a few years ago.

My favorite is the Marantz tube power amplifier front panel I found on the side of the road-nothing but a thick aluminum front panel.

I built a modular (22 panels) synthesizer with most of the cleaned parts. I have to buy some potentiometers, jacks and switches, and some more specialized ICs that I can't find in radios, etc.

When I was a kid in the 1950s, there was a radio/television repair shop about half a mile from my home. They have a shed where they throw away equipment that the customer does not want to repair or equipment that they have repaired but the customer does not pick up. Several times a year, they will let our children fill the carriage with what we want. What happiness do we have! I remember that Zenith Transoceanic I found at the time was still working. I tasted that shortwave radio for the first time. Later, I worked at Zenith as a TV engineering technology for a period of time.

Finding the Zenith Transoceanic SW suit is very cool! I have been a licensed amateur radio operator for 43 years and I have been working since I was 6 years old, listening to shortwave radio in the heyday! I like this hobby and built my own equipment. It is very educational at all levels, including geography and world culture!

interesting. Last year I received a message from a child who pulled a 22-year-old agricultural control box from the trash can. At that time I put the email address on the S/S layer. At that time, my (competent) partner insisted on clearing the IC ID. Therefore, the child wants to know the content on the PCB and the purpose of the box. And his roommate wanted a part of it. After replacing the lid and transistor, he made the box work normally.

We have been talking for a while, and we have recruited another person from the dark side. When he returns to school, he will switch to EE major. Everyone cheered Lord Vader.

Or as they said recently.

B ^)

I use a bunch of stereo speakers from the 70s and 80s. Usually used as an endless supply of replacement covers. Suitable for newer Jankier electronic products.

The board must be the correct year.

Too early: They have old useless DIP parts on double-sided PCBs. It is difficult to remove and not worth the effort. I have 20 tubes of various unused parts and trash cans. I haven't touched it in the past 20 years, and it feels like there is no tomorrow. Since there are only a few stitches, the simulant is easier to delete.

Just right: SMT parts are easy to desolder with hot air tools. The boards are still made of soft candy, so they can still be used.

It's too late: a large SoC with only one function. They are not useful for anything other than design purposes. BGA or other difficult-to-use packages that require multilayer boards. Mainly choose the passive.

Goldilocks Dilemma

My problem is that you want to kill the original work, and it is difficult for me to do so. A long time ago, I had a bunch of Unix machines that could hold 300 MB SCSI drives, the memory of which could be modified to fit a PC, and each machine was 20 megabytes. I sell them at a price lower than the value of the drive, just because I cannot take them apart by myself. They still work. I do have a few boxes of rubbish boards. Although these items are indeed made of hoses, I still make scarves. I find that few surface mount parts are much more difficult.

Write here. This used to be a problem for me, but I overcame it. I woke up one day and said, "This thing gathers dust and is of no use to anyone, or I can take it apart, and at least I am very happy to take it apart." "But it's retro!" Someone said. Yes, there are? Useless is useless, no matter how old it is. The 23-channel CB is neat, but as useless as the CB. When was the last time someone had fun with one of these radios? A long, long time. I have had more fun from it than anyone has imagined in the past 25 years. Now *that* is valuable, and make them valuable.

In fact, this reminds me of some things that came to my mind when thinking about this topic the other day:

For historians and archaeologists, sentimentality makes sense. I am neither

what are you saying? That is our daily bread in Africa. I have been doing it for 35 years. Professor of physics.

Old industrial gears = a source of expensive high-value parts, otherwise expensive or not available at all!

Wow! Check out all these replies. And I thought I was the only one who likes to tear garbage into pieces. I have nothing to add. It's nice to see other people evolve like me.

This is the way of the past, and it will be the way of the future. Resources are limited, and learning by connecting different source components is the best form of learning. And save money...

A few weeks ago, I assembled an electric guitar amplifier. The pickup is a solenoid. Random stereo system speakers. Printer power supply. Switch to vintage wine from the 1950s, made in the US :) The jars are newer. Knob on old test equipment. The audio transformer is actually a 120/24 V power transformer... I used a new transistor, but this is optional. There are hundreds of old and new things around me.

The end is almost here! Prepare... :)

I have some boxes with old through-hole assembly boards instead of removing all parts. Now, I have a deal with a local recycling station: I can take any mechanical/electrical equipment-they return some repaired equipment (free of charge), and I have an unlimited supply of parts. 20 LCD TVs must have been collected by now. Best find: Almost brand new washing machine, showing error code. The error is: clean the filter. And coffee machine with error. Use vinegar and preservatives for a few cycles!

The good things that fools throw away are amazing! I have never bought a new TV, but over the years, I have collected many great TVs from the garbage dump on the roadside and repaired them at very little cost. The latest TV I'm currently using with great results is a 50-inch LED TV with an excellent thin screen! I don't even need to fix it! The reason that guy threw it out was because the rhythmic "ticking" sound from the center speaker was almost below the human hearing level! I don’t even have to worry about installing it correctly, just disconnect the speakers! The left and right stereo speakers are working properly, enough to meet my requirements! Lol!

* scavEnging!

Are you sure we are not writing sc-Avenging?

The best cleaning unit I just found is a 512 Canon printer. The sum of the parts I cleaned greatly exceeded the price of this old printer. 30 micro switches, 6 small stepper motors, 150 small screws, a small matching kit of 22 springs, 26 plastic gears with different transmission ratios, many ribbon wires and connectors and everything I can recover from the board Electronic parts. And I can send all plastic parts to a recycling center instead of landfill. These are part of the honey scavenger hole. Never give up all these parts. The main finding...

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Brand new

(CM4) Just released! Surprised? No, we are not-Raspberry Pi Foundation

For the 4 series for a long time.

The appearance has undergone a comprehensive overhaul, but the changes in this little monster are much greater than at first glance. We will take you to understand them all. The most important benefit is the ease of implementation of PCIe and NVMe, which makes it possible to move data in and out of the SSD at an amazing speed. Combining optional WiFi/Bluetooth and easy-to-design Gigabit Ethernet, CM4 is a connection monster.

Ultra-fast home NAS is one of the classic "want to build with Pi" projects. CM4 makes this finally possible.

If you don't understand the calculation modules, they are a simplified version of what you might think of as Raspberry Pi, which is officially called the "Model B" form factor. For commercial applications, computing modules lack many of the comforts of older siblings, but they are designed to be flexible and allow some additional functions.

The calculation module is not entirely suitable for beginners, but we are deeply impressed by the extent to which Team Raspberry enables intermediate hackers to access this module. This is mostly due to the open design of the IO Breakout board that was also released today. Using the fully opened KiCAD design file, if you can edit and order the PCB, and then reflow the content that arrived in the mail, you can design for CM4. The benefit of this is a lighter, cheaper and more customizable platform that packs the functions of the Raspberry Pi 4 into a flat 40 mm x 55 mm package.

So let's take a look at the new features, and then look at what is necessary to integrate the calculation module into your own design.

The biggest impact of CM4 is the new connector. since

, They have a 200-pin SO-DIMM connector, just like the DDR2 memory board of a notebook computer. CM4 changed this by choosing two high-speed, high-density 100-pin mezzanine connectors. It is painful to break the tradition. We know that some of you will be left with a cabinet full of SO-DIMM slots, but they do so for good reasons.

System on chip used by Pi 4 series (Broadcom BCM2711)

(PDF). Therefore, Pi 4 Model B is equipped with a second HDMI connector, USB 3.0 and Gigabit Ethernet. But it is even capable! For example, enterprising hackers soon realized that USB 3.0 was on the PCIe bus.

. This is feasible, but it is difficult and requires some complicated on-board rework.

The existence of the computing module allows designers to easily use all the functions of the SOC. It is impossible to install PCIe with dual HDMI and other high-speed peripherals into the old SO-DIMM connector,

. Therefore, the new connector:

If you already feel itchy fingers on the circuit board design.

By using two mezzanine connectors instead of a single SO-DIMM, the CM4 design achieves a good separation between low-speed and high-speed peripherals. One side has traditional Raspberry Pi GPIO, power supply, SD card interface and Ethernet. The other side is responsible for PCIe, USB, HDMI and MIPI CSI camera and DSI display lines, each with two lines. On the one hand, this means that you need to handle more high-speed IO. On the other hand, if you don't need any high-speed interface, you can solve it with a simple single connector design.

The new connector also provides a smaller footprint for the module and reduces the height and weight of the board when it is installed in the device. They achieve a better separation of high-speed domain and low-speed domain, so the layout will be easier. Oops, their prices are even cheaper than the old SO-DIMM sockets. Considering that this is a compromise of PCIe, we have no regrets for this change.

CM3 has more ordering options than CM2, and Pi 4 Model B has more memory configuration options than Pi 3 Model B. But CM4 is competent. There are 32 different varieties with different prices. why? There are four layers of RAM, four layers of onboard eMMC storage and optional wireless modules. (4 x 4 x 2 = 32.) Let's start with the basic model: no wireless function, 1 GB RAM and CM4 without eMMC. This will cost you $25.

For other options, it's like pizza toppings. An additional $5 allows you to surf the Internet wirelessly. For $5 per tier, you can add 8 GB, 16 GB or 32 GB eMMC. To get a board with 2 GB RAM, the price is US$5, 4 GB costs US$20, and 8 GB costs US$45.

Quick Quiz: How much is CM4 Lite (without eMMC) with WiFi and 4 GB RAM? We get $50. CM4 with wireless capabilities, powerful 32 GB eMMC and 2 GB RAM? It's also $50. Pi with everything (wireless / 32 GB eMMC / 8 GB RAM)? $90.

Some listed in the datasheet may be configured as "batch", while others are configured as "1 + /batch", so smaller users may not be easy to use them. For example, if you want the wireless number to be 1, you may be limited to 2 GB or 4 GB RAM configurations. However, all levels of eMMC are equally available. In the long run, since all this may change according to customer needs, you may need to check the Raspberry Pi website for the latest information.

Compared with Pi 4 Model B, CM4 is more flexible. The headline difference is that CM4 no longer dedicates the PCIe bus to USB 3.0. This choice is meaningful for consumer-oriented circuit boards, but CM4 is for designers. PCIe can be added to a CM4 design very simply: all you need is the correct socket and 3.3 V and 12 V power rails. And this has even been updated

Solid state drive. Raspberry engineer Dominic Plunkett told us that they obtained a write speed of 390 MBytes/s in the lab, which is very close to the theoretical maximum speed. You are trading with Model B's USB 3.0 port, but if you are after fast SSD I/O, PCIe with NVMe is the most advanced. Not bad for single board computers!

Type B has only one disconnected two-channel MIPI CSI camera connector and one disconnected two-channel MIPI DSI display connector. CM4 allows the use of two each, for example, to achieve stereoscopic 3D imaging. (You can also

, But it is now obsolete. ) In addition, Model B only exposes the two-channel version of CSI and DSI, while CM4 also provides you with a four-channel version to provide higher bandwidth. Using these functions, you can get higher performance without using the camera

. Want ultra-high frame rate or resolution video on DSI screens? CM4.

Even the optional WiFi/Bluetooth module is more flexible. In addition to the on-board PCB antenna, they also added a UFL connector for the external antenna, and the internal and external antennas can be enabled or disabled through software as needed. This makes CM4 the right choice for demanding WiFi applications or just built in a metal box. The Raspberry Pi Foundation will sell FCC-certified antennas that can be used with the CM4, or you can bring your own but carry it with you.

Finally, the Ethernet chip has undergone a minor upgrade,

On CM4. It is still a Gigabit Ethernet PHY chip, but the chip also supports

. If you need better time synchronization than NTP, then you know what all this means.

We noticed two things that make us feel curious while working

Use our fine-toothed comb.

First, it says that CM4 is more efficient than Model B, so it uses less power. But because it is on a smaller board, it does not dissipate heat passively like Model B, and it still prefers to throttle the CPU speed to prevent overheating. There are currently no figures available, but we will use Model B hands-on and will compare the two in a stress test soon. stay tuned.

Secondly, there is a tempting sentence about the remaining two analog inputs

, And you are called

(PDF) For further study. They seem to break in the labeled pins

with

On the official IO board. In our opinion, the glove was thrown away.

Finally, sometimes flexibility conflicts with ease of use. Type B has a total of four USB ports: two USB 3.0 and two USB 2.0. USB 3.0 was cut off, and CM4 only has a USB 2.0 port connection, because that is supported by Broadcom SOC itself. If you want more USB ports, you must build your own hub. This is what they did on Model B and what they did on the CM4 IO demo board. Speaking of IO boards...

We got an IO board and our sample CM4. use

as well as

Available, it is basically a template for making your own CM4-based design. Take a look!

It only takes a little time to bring all the functions of CM4 into the real world, and we are impressed. The HDMI port is the same as the MIPI camera and display cable, which is wired directly from the connector to the connector. Ethernet is realized through Ethernet protection, but if you don't need Ethernet protection, you can connect directly from CM4 to magnetic components. (Or optical transceiver?) PCIe is equally simple: everything except the 3.3 V and 12 V power rails is plugged directly into the socket from the CM4.

Indeed, the only part of the IO board that looks like any design work (no offense, RPi engineer!) is the USB 2.0 hub, which allows up to four connections, if you need a tested design, you can copy it directly. , The power supply is converted down to 5 V from the 12 V barrel jack of the CM4, and to 3.3V for the PCIe connector. The SD card can hold the eMMC "Lite" version of CM4 without a high-side switch, so it can be turned off when the CM4 is not in use to save power. Everything else is just wires.

But they are not necessarily simple wires. For those who have not designed high-speed boards, this is a trap. Basically need to pay attention to two types of traces: 90Ω differential pair and 100Ω differential pair. The first group includes PCIe and USB, and in pairing, they need to be matched to a minimum of 0.15 mm. For PCIe, the recommended matching is 0.1 mm. 100Ω pairs are specified for Ethernet, HDMI, and MIPI CSI and DSI connections.

According to the data sheet, the requirements for the length of the cross-wire pair are not so strict, but the length of the two wires in the differential pair must be matched. Since the European Center for Nuclear Research (CERN) added KiCAD in 2015, it has been doing differential pairing.

It is strongly recommended that you use it to calculate the trace width for impedance control, but only for Windows. (You may only determine the trace width and the spacing of the IO board design, and ignore the whole problem.)

Of course, unless you need them, you don't need all these high-speed peripherals. You can run a CM4 server with eMMC and wireless functions using only 5 V and GND pins, provided that you have a way to import the software into eMMC first. For the classic headless Pi experience, you can also connect GPIO and SD card lines without worrying about impedance. (Note that you can only use low-speed mezzanine connectors to do this. Not bad.)

But this is not why you are here. You want to turn the IO board reference design into this high-speed custom PCIe NAS, remember? That's it! Just remember to design many status LEDs.

In short, CM4 is all the functions of Raspberry Pi 4 Model B, but it uses a more flexible and consumer-friendly packaging. It has 32 different varieties and exposes some serious high-end peripherals, which is especially impressive for the low price tag. The real cost of admission is to design your own motherboard to work with it, but even with some help, it doesn't look too bad. We look forward to seeing everyone using it.

Cool stuff, maybe now I can finally make the old PineBook really run the desktop environment: D

The appearance has changed. Will it be compatible with your pinebook?

There is nothing that cannot be fixed with wires and hot glue.

What are the unfilled pads on the top edge of the board? Next to the FCC logo

There is no clue. It looks like some kind of socket takes up space, doesn't it?

It seems that there are 6 signals and 2 ground points. One of the signals ends at the test point on the back, and the other signal is bent under the can of the wireless unit. It is a four-layer board, and the other four signals seem to be sandwiched in between.

The general location makes me think of the radio, but the fact that the wiring is routed around the reference point makes me feel unimportant. Well, that is sparsely populated after all. :)

It looks similar to the debug port on other Pis.

It is just a JTAG connector, used to start and debug the board.

Please provide further clues.

This is the VC6 jtag debugging port. It is uninhabited because there is no tool to use it outside of Broadcom/RPi Foundation.

It looks like it might be used for a threaded antenna mount, as can be found on appropriate wifi hardware. Of course it's just a guess.

It looks like a Mini USB 8pin connector.

For eMMC flashing will be meaningful.

Many companies will not only exchange designs, but also choose boards with the same shape so that their 1k+ boards can still be used on the shelf.

Of course, unless they also produce older versions.

I am very happy that I chose nanopi neo as the product, because it will be produced in a period of time, and will carry a "long-term support" label, prompting timely obsolescence.

CM3+ is still available, while CM4 will not be available until at least 2028. The Neo’s outdated claims cannot be found, so comparisons cannot be made.

My only problem now is.

How many PCIe channels does it have?

Although the data sheet can quickly answer this question.

It has 1 and is at PCIe 2.0 speed.

That is, only about 4 Gb/s, although the speed is fast, it is not impressive.

The SATA3 port is much faster. (SATA3 is 6 Gb/s (speed increased by 50%))

Fortunately, the chips used already have 1 Gb/s networking capabilities, so there is no need to spend our PCIe channels on it.

But I really don't think this platform is a good foundation for "ultra-fast home NAS".

Considering that the old relics of PCs usually have 3-8 SATA ports (mostly SATA3) and a small number of PCIe channels, or even 3.0, a 10 Gb/s network is an option. Then it usually supports more than 8 GB or RAM, so there is enough cache space.

If CM4 has 4 PCIe channels, then from the NAS point of view, or anything related to PCIe will become more interesting.

Just like I am happy to replace the second HDMI port with a pair of PCIe 3.0 channels. (The HDMI 2.0 port sends data at a speed of up to 18 Gb/s and has 4 differential pairs. If the PCIe controller can maintain the original speed, the technology can be used for two PCIe 4.0 channels, so the 3.0 channel is more practical ...)

Correction of HDMI 2.0 statement:

The 3 data pairs of HDMI 2.0 have a combined bandwidth of 18 Gb/s. (The fourth pair is the bus clock)

That is, each pair only sends data at a rate of 6 Gb/s, which is far from meeting the 16 Gb/s requirement of PCIe 4.0 for its channel.

However, it should be enough for SATA3, or if you speed up slightly, you can reach the 8 Gb/s used by PCIe 3.0. (If only PCIe 2.5 is 6 Gb/s, and PCIe 3.5 is 12 Gb/s.)

This one. When this article originally claimed that the classic Pi usage would be "ultra-high-speed home NAS", it attracted a lot of attention.

Guys, BCM2711 is still an optimized product for set-top box devices. The marketing method of CM as an "industrial application embedded board" has not changed. In fact, using the Raspberry Pi pi cannot meet the needs of most applications, which still proves that the versatility of Broadcom hardware is still useful.

First of all, a few days ago, the new "Oh, you want to install a Linux-enabled computer in an embedded device" guide was fully launched, and it is actually very good:

Second: If you want to control/deeply embed the system on the module, it is much larger than the RPi foundation:

For example, NXP has a [recommended supplier] (

); The same goes for other suppliers.

I really don't see the appeal of computing modules that push 4K-capable video output to deep embedded applications (usually meaning "headless"). Maybe I am missing something, but:

Using CM4 does not get "mechanical convenience", it can output high-speed signals, so the motherboard using these signals needs high-speed design. At that time we will leave the beginner's field (it's okay, not for beginners), by then, what the "regular" board/SoC vendors provide will become a real cost-saving tool.

What do you know, when I buy the NXP SoC directly and put it on the board, I get an IDE that allows me to assign pin functions as needed. I can directly access the support forum (I ask you to do this at Broadcom). What I didn't get was Raspbian, and personally, it's no big deal. In any case, I still hope that Yocto BSP or Buildroot integration can be used.

The power consumption of the Pi 4B is better than ever (so I think the CM4 is about the same), which means that it is still the most power-consuming Pi ever and one of the ARM SBCs with the lowest design cost. , But in the end it is still in the "assessment of equipment that usually has this computing capability", which was not the case before (because the early RPi was slow and still consumes power).

I like the basics of RPi and its achievements in popular self-made software computing. I think they do not plan to extend to industrial use in general, but this is a business decision they made. For some reason, modern industrial high-end SoMs tend to integrate things such as the Cortex-M4 core and its Cortex-A core-just because you rarely only need high but uncertain throughput, and Control applications usually need to be able to react within a defined number of nanoseconds. BCM2711 does not have this function. It does not have excellent PCIe or networking (hint: please check the datasheet of the "Spear MX8" board for comparison.), ADC or industry standard bus (CAN? Any other fieldbus?).

The RPi Foundation is pushing consumer multimedia hardware to key industrial applications. I hope it works well.

RPF(T) sells 50% of its products to industrial applications and has been doing it for many years (millions per year). And your comments on the SoC itself are somewhat "off the standard"

It helps you to tell us which comments about SoCs are a bit "off-the-standard".

I think I agree with everything he said-the main problem with the A-series weapons in industrial services is the uncertain interruption delay. Next comes the pipeline, out-of-order execution, speculative execution, and cache consistency.

When the real pulse to the output pin must arrive absolutely on time to stimulate the heart tissue, so that the heart beats, you should use the cortex-M series core.

Raspberry Pi or anything that runs completely on the kernel should not be trusted by real-time control.

It can monitor the system, handle larger system states, log records, and update when content needs to be changed.

However, the actual controls that deal with real-world interaction should indeed be handled by a processor that has a fixed cycle/instruction (at least for a given instruction), but it should not be executed out of order, speculatively executed, and preferably There is no cache. (Because cache misses can cause delay spikes, leading to uncertain timing.)

I usually prefer to use a smaller microcontroller, but if you need more digital operations, or need to handle a lot of data/bandwidth, Cortex-M may be great. (In this regard, PIC micro is a bit weak.)

Although in some cases, using dedicated logic/hardware for functions is even good, although this has its own problems.

For our application, we can make a "dedicated" device that has a screen readable by direct sunlight, custom button functions, and all other cool features, and is 100% compatible with the RPi that Jane Sixpack can buy. Shelf and program. In this way Jane can use vanilla RPi to play around, and then lock the target device by making a few changes to boot/config.txt.

Which SoCs and boards do you recommend to check? I have been researching some options for NAS and router applications. The main reason why I returned to x86 is that I can use updates like pfSense and Unraid directly without waiting for any device-specific porting like embedded platforms typically. This also means that I can also stay up-to-date after the manufacturer stops updating the hardware.

Although Pi hardware is still not suitable for routers or NAS, the foundation of Pi seems to be moving in this direction, and is moving in this direction. Are there other embedded platforms that are more capable in these roles and allow direct updates without the blessing of the device manufacturer?

Your phone number is incorrect. PCIe 2.0 is 5Gbit/s, and uses the same 8b10b encoding as SATA3, so the speed of SATA at the transmission layer is increased by 20%. But SATA3 has about twice the protocol overhead compared to PCIe, so you will get 550MByte/s and 500MByte/s during sequential file transfer. It only has a 10% advantage in speed, but it lacks hardware flexibility.

My main point is about "ultra-high-speed home NAS". This article is recommended as an effective application for CM4. To be honest, since this device can't even reach the speed of a single SATA3 port, it is far from "ultra-high-speed home NAS". Area, even with NVMe storage...

However, even if there are only PCIe 2.0 channels, individuals will find devices with more PCIe channels more interesting. Because PCIe add-on cards do provide a lot of flexibility.

I think it's fairly fair to call it a fast home NAS. Because compared to Pi4, the speed of most home NAS is really very slow (and if accessed via wifi, it will become a limiting factor anyway). It will never be the fastest NAS-but it has to strike a balance between power consumption and speed, and better control its functions and hardware than off-the-shelf products.

I actually still use Pi1 as my NAS. It is fast enough to handle 3 people who tend to use it (the same Pi also runs some other services at the same time), and it runs well. Its performance is one year less than that of a NAS replaced within a month, but its performance is less than using some old ATX PCs. Although a real PC can also run other services, this may be a very effective option.

I don't think it is the best use for Pi4. But it is a completely effective use. For me, with its relatively powerful processor and memory, and excellent screen options, I can see many embedded uses-driving your AR headset, which is a message that will not compromise the safety of the car Entertainment system.

I sometimes use a normal Pi4 to run virtual machines. It has become the way I have been using it on music/video and test beds. Of course, the workstation will still reduce performance, but Pi4 meets all my light load requirements, while being portable and energy-efficient (I have installed my Thunder in a sturdy smartphone cardboard box, which has a very The big heat sink, (I think it was pulled out from the linear regulator), so I can pull it out completely and close the box completely, and then take it away – it’s more effective than a laptop. On the other hand, My workstation cannot be idle below 100W and has a weight of at least 15KG. This is largely due to all the cooling power required for CPU and GPU...

In most cases, a large number of pi will definitely make the NAS server sufficient.

But I do not agree with the "ultra high performance NAS" in this article, because it contains the words "ultra" and "high performance". If it's just "NAS", it would be a good choice, and even "high-performance NAS" would be reasonable because it does run at 1 Gb/s without major issues. But adding "Ultra" at least made me require at least a 10 Gb/s network connection.

Yes.

Pi constitutes an excellent 24/7 system. Do it yourself to perform various Internet-oriented tasks.

It has good performance, low power consumption, and outstanding performance. But it is clear that the appropriate workstation will not be replaced soon.

I set up a video server with a 32-bit HP thin client and its matching PCIe x4 extension. A 16 GB SATA SSD was found, which can physically hold and maximize its RAM. Insert the eSATA card into the expansion chassis, and insert the external 500 gig drive into the expansion chassis. After installing the 32-bit version of Open Media Vault 5, it consumes only a few watts. If the hard drive uses most of the power while it is spinning, it will not be surprising. I might change it to PCIe NVME adapter, so it will be a whole. I also considered using a second expansion chassis to fix and connect, then switch to a SATA car with internal ports, and put the drive in the second expansion.

For this purpose, all you have to do is provide videos on my LAN via DLNA so that the smart TV can use its built-in software to play them, and it works well.

When can we expect the next zero?

Eben's usual answer to this question is "when they find a reasonably priced SoC, they can have a larger PoP memory die"

Never forget that you are the rear seat driver on Rpi. Real OS runs in the graphics core.

> Real OS runs in the graphics core.

Can you explain further? I don't know much about this matter.

VideoCore starts the system and has full access to RAM and peripherals. The ARM core is secondary.

The binary blob for nice graphics is not Broadcom's open source code.

Rubbish. For the form factor, a-What is the significance of CM4 that does not disclose all the feature sets? This cannot be done without changing the connector.

Oh yes, Real (time) operating system can also run on the wi-fi board;-)

Yes, firmware is running on the VPU, but it does less than before. Most of the content has moved to the ARM side (3d, hevc, hdmi, dsi, etc.). The closed firmware is mainly just the older codec and thermal adjustment of the camera, which is actually the boot process before the ARM is powered on.

Therefore, it seems that the USB 2.0 port on the demo board is provided through a single USB 2.0 OTG port connected to the USB-C connector on the current Pi 4 board. This means you can choose between USB 2 devices or USB 2 hosts and USB 3 hosts or PCIe.

A bit disappointing!

Well, this is the SoC problem.

If you want more PCIe or PCIe connected peripherals, please wait for someone to make a carrier board with PCIe switches. You can connect PCIe x1 to many x1 switches, which is ideal. Of course, you have the bottleneck of Pi, but you are of no avail.

Maybe the next Pi SoC will have PCIe 3 x1 ports, or even x2. But this may be next year at the earliest.

At least this board is very thin. It can make some bulky Pi laptops slimmer.

It would be a nightmare to manually solder these two connectors and keep them within tolerance so that they are completely aligned with the computing module!

I think there is already a lot of manual welding here. You really want to use only the right footprints and let the reflow surface tension self-alignment work its magic.

Depends on how desperate you are... I 3d printed a _smaller_ connector alignment bracket, which is better than the previous alignment, _sort of_ works...

Can it be!

you should? It must not work! But I am desperate.

They are completely free floating. This means that the problem now is to place the connector and move it to the return area. Yes, you can try a heat gun, but use soft plastic like this...

It was frustrating, they did not choose a connector with a positioning pin. It's frustrating.

Order a plank for 25 euros and use it as an adjustment tool.

Use dremel to get close to the connector in certain areas and fix the hand-soldered part of the connector to the board.

Remove the board and solder the remaining connectors. In the first step, you do not need to deal with network bridges, please solve them in step 2.

I think it is not difficult to solder and align with microscope connectors.

We weld one side, install the module with the other connector, and then weld it down. Work treat

Super glue...

Put the connector in the module, put a small amount of super glue on the bottom of the connector, put it on the board, and remove the CM. The connector is in the ideal position and you can solder it in place.

Might work. However, those things are already tight. I have to grasp the handle of the plastic scalpel and wedge it under to pull it out.

I personally worry about the super glue remaining on the needle when squeezing out.

Not to mention the connectors tend to hold together firmly.

However, there is actually no need to fix the connector.

If you have a laser cutting machine on hand, you can cut out the clamp that fixes the end of the connector at any time. (The outermost pins may be blocked.) This way, the middle pins on both sides can be soldered correctly before removing the clamp and soldering the rest.

Although someone will be asked to trim a decent laser cutter, but to be fair, it is not difficult. One can also use a milling machine, a 3D printer, or even a stable hand and some time.

As far as alignment is concerned, a well-made fixture can solve most manufacturing problems.

Weld these for a walk in the park. Many of these connectors have alignment pins that push into the PCB.

However, unfortunately, these did not.

They have a wide self-alignment range (0.33 m). The nightmare is spreading. The pin itself has a horizontal play of +/- 0.08 mm, so this is not a problem. *Vertical* is more of an issue (there is a 0.4mm gap), but *this* is not bad.

Wow 0.3m, great! You can place the board near the breach:)

Hirose DF40 uses the same connector series as Intel Edison, which is despised by many people.

I have already hand soldered these exact connectors before, and this is not the most interesting thing I have ever done. I think their spacing is 0.3mm. Yes, you will need a fixture for alignment, they will not tolerate it.

It now appears that the design of a small, inexpensive (-ish) Raspberry laptop with a 13-inch Thinkpad keyboard, 20-hour battery life, Gigabit LAN and NVMe SSD is very attractive! Boy, I love these times, we live in :)

NVMe is meaningless when you only have 1 PCIe 2.0 and you might want to use it for the missing USB3.0 port.

Linux certainly supports PCIe switches. Therefore, a simple x1 to 4 x1 switch will provide you with additional PCIe channels, and you can hang up USB 3 and NVMe. Of course, you are sharing the bandwidth of a value pipeline, but hey, we have been using USB 2.0 for a long time!

Yes why?

My desktop computer has every external device suspended on a single USB 2.0 hub. Keyboard, mouse, Bluetooth headset, USB audio mixer, MIDI controller, *webcam*...no problem.

On a hypothetical CM laptop-both cameras are on the CSI bus, the keyboard and touchpad can easily be GPIO or even serial, Wifi and Bluetooth are on SPI/UART, Ethernet has a dedicated bus, and audio can be Via SPI or just disconnect the HDMI video and LCD video from the HDMI port...

I don't know why I need to use USB 3 on this device so urgently. Oops, I can survive without USB at all.

Even, I even forgot the USB-C power supply-just charge it via PoE to start.

The new shape broke the hope of TuringPi's CM4 version. I am disappointed. :(

Maybe this announcement will make you less disappointed

"Want to know how we can do this with the new form factor? We will announce Turing Pi V2 soon. Yes, V2 will be available soon. Stay tuned!"

Please see the full announcement at

.

its

Do not

Thanks, fixed!

WTF, Pi Foundation: According to the data sheet, is the operating temperature range "worse"? 0 to 85? Are you lying to me

Shout out, the normal -40 to +85 computing module using PCIe is very useful. why? ?

Why -40 degrees Fahrenheit?

Because what we live on a planet is usually below 32F?

Conveniently -40f is also -40c

In any case, these apps can be used in the cold winter for some reasons:

Data logging or automation/control of industrial machinery

Any car

Agricultural monitoring/control (in the United States, pigs/pigs are grown indoors all year round, but if the heater is dropped or stored in an area not under climate control, you may need some equipment that can work)

I'm sure there is more.

For clarity, the operating temperature of CM4 is 0 to +85. For me, 0 to +85C means "indoor only". I don’t think there is anywhere in the United States that is relatively *part* relatively cooler than outdoor temperatures below 0 C (although obviously in Hawaii, no one* lives in these areas).

Outdoor application

Industrial cold storage applications

If you need a product with an industrial temperature rating, please purchase one. Does anyone remember the reason for creating Pi? It aims to provide students with the cheapest possible learning costs. It was never for speed.

Indeed, students study on the Pi platform and are then hired as the lowest-income people in the industry and assigned to design a one-time or low-volume solution...you bet they are using Pi :) Sometimes, they will try to use CM, Damn low-cost students... or more realistically, they mentioned the price of pi and the executives were sold! – You should see a large number of Arduinos that have been used to replace Siemens PLC systems on my local port:

I can’t wait to meet all the students who will learn to solder 0.3mm pitch connectors so that they can run Scratch on their Pi4 computing module.

Forget about the "for educational purposes", for many years it has become obvious that this is no longer the main focus.

Well, I do, that's why I didn't frustrate these. I can’t tell you how many people want to throw the Raspberry Pi on things because that’s what every damn project uses, and then wonder why I use a "niche" thing like BeagleBone Black because it actually Meet the specifications.

If you really need this level of cooling, and the Pi does not self-heat in its working window, you can add a heater at any time. It is different from the unusual feature that electronic devices working in harsh environments have their own climate control enclosures. (Pi4 will emit quite a lot of heat from that small mold, I hope this will be exactly the same, so keeping it in the operating window might just be putting it in a properly insulated box)

We are looking for these figures-the data sheet will be updated in due course.

This is wonderful! When I saw that there was no eMMC option and the rating of LPDDR4 dropped to -40, I felt very hopeful. I am very satisfied with the -40 level solution without eMMC, which is understandable and easy to solve.

"In short, CM4 is all the features of Raspberry Pi 4 Model B, but it uses a more flexible and consumer-friendly packaging."

Hmm... not right. Unlike all products in other RPI product series, the CMx module has an extended temperature range. Most RPI users even forget/don't know this, but they still leave them in hot and cold environments. When you do, they will fail.

If this is correct for CM4, that's fine, but please check the data sheet. You will increase in the high-end temperature (15C), but the low-end temperature will remain the same. Regrettably, the older CM is only slightly below 0 (or -20 to +85 if there is memory), and it is annoying that these two components may *will* exceed their temperature range (eMMC / LPDDR2), the internal behavior has temperature compensation.

"Without even knowing this, they still throw them in hot and cold environments. When you do, they will fail."

The really annoying situation is when people throw "but...but...I threw my Raspberry Pi into liquid nitrogen, which is good!" Of course. It may be a while. There is a difference between operating *one thing* in a short time and wanting to operate it *several hundred* for a long time.

The base board that connects PCIe to a four-gigabit network card will be a good router. The computing power and large amounts of RAM required to run a VPN are used to implement VMs/containers for complex network settings that usually require multiple routers.

Yes, when I read this article, I had exactly the same idea.

Indeed, I really like this idea... Now I need another Pi and a reflow soldering option.

Heck is powerful enough to possibly run a video chat server while still performing all operations. In the current situation of lock-in type, which one may be the real winner (if you are against all big data type legions, then at least you must have your own system).

Or just get a $5 adapter card and a PCIe four-way Ethernet adapter from eBay?

Exactly what I think. Over the years, many people have put forward the idea of ​​a RasPi router, which always makes me cringe, because the hardware is really inappropriate, and the USB bus is filled with Ethernet. With Pi 4, we finally have the proper Ethernet, and now with this module, it is possible to achieve really good router settings.

What's really exciting to me is that Pi 4 can push Wireguard encryption at full gigabit wire speed thanks to the NEON SIMD instruction in Cortex A72.

How critical is the stacking here to impedance matching on PCI-E.

I suspect that in some cases this may be an obstacle to making my own boards here, because I haven't seen too many "lower cost" prototype board room options that provide controlled impedance. Maybe they did it, but I don’t seem to work hard enough. :)

Cheap circuit boards do have impedance options available. If I remember correctly, ordering the controlled impedance products provided by JLCPCB with a 4-layer circuit board will not even add any additional cost.

I think I didn’t seem to work hard enough. :) To be honest, the fastest thing I usually do is USB 2.0, so that I don't have to worry too much about the prototype.

The biggest problem with controlled impedance is if you make an internal pair on the edge (or worse, wide) coupled stripline. Then, the signal propagates completely in the dielectric, and then obviously the impedance depends entirely on the dielectric.

If the edge-coupled microstrip is firmly coupled (smaller line-to-pair distance), its dielectric sensitivity will be much lower. And, if you really want to be lazy, use a 2D field solver (such as MMTL) and use a coupled coplanar waveguide to clear the plane under the pair until you reach the bottom layer. This solution has lower dielectric and stack sensitivity because the signal is tightly contained in a single layer.

Not sure if the copper on all the layers below can be removed frequently, but I think it is an interesting tool included in the toolbox. :)

Usually, I have been able to get rid of edge coupling and pretend that there is nothing under it. Everything seems to be normal... but I must admit that I did not check anything on the VNA.

What I want to write is that I haven't done a high speed like PCI-E before, but a quick search shows that it is only 100Mhz...I don't know why I think it will be higher than this.

"Not sure if I can often remove copper on all layers below, but I guess it is an interesting tool in the toolbox. :)"

Investigate it. For example, these are techniques that people use to manage excess capacitance due to pad size at extremely high speeds. see

, Page 30. Even simple things (such as invalidating the plane under the pad, but the size of the pad is the same), will reduce the parasitic capacitance to ~0.1 pF.

In fact, its frequency of appearance is much lower than you expected! If you use only one edge-mounted RF connector and blindly use the layout they provide on a multilayer board (for example, even at about 100 MHz), you will lose about 10% of the signal. This is because their size is "given*" you intend to use on a *2-layer board*, and the capacitance of the pad with the ground layer underneath is "high"*.

Therefore, you need to clear the plane under the connector to effectively *make* a two-layer board in this area.

"What I want to write is that I haven't done as high speed as PCI-E before, but a quick search shows that it is only 100Mhz"

No no no! That is the reference clock. The actual signal itself is in the GHz range.

Something interesting, thanks! Will definitely remember this. I guess that as long as you remove at least one copper layer below, you can get the distance between a core + a prepreg and the next conductor on the 4-layer board.

I am a little dismissive of PCI-E data line speed. I mean, if you can make a whole bunch of peripherals much faster than USB on a PCI-E card, then the data rate must of course be much higher than USB.

This is very feasible on a 4-layer stack. On standard (eg Elecrow or Seeed) FR4, the typical distance between .062 inches (1.6 mm) and the internal ground plane is ~6 mm. Using 6mil pitch and 6mil pitch wires can get 100 ohm +/- 10% differential impedance. finished! Just remember, if you step across power planes, use a coupling capo between power planes.

"This is very feasible in a 4-layer stack. On standard (e.g. Elecrow or Seeed) FR4, the typical spacing of .062 inches (1.6 mm) to the internal ground plane is ~6 mm."

This is just a coupled microstrip, not an edge-coupled CPWG. I also usually recommend tightening the spacing between conductors to the minimum allowable range (for example, 4 mil), because it will tighten the electric field to spread in the dielectric as little as possible.

"Done! Just remember, if you cross the power planes, use a coupling capo between the power planes."

Why in the world run a differential pair on the ground plane? You can get the proper impedance at a distance of ~mil. The decoupling capacitors may also be several miles apart-the return current needs to jump to the top, cross and move down. I have seen this advice elsewhere and have simulated it, but it is not very good. You'd better provide a good return path on the power plane and leave the layer near the power plane as soon as possible, which is better.

If you *must* run one next to the power plane, you only need to place a ground plane next to the differential pair. The power plane is not necessarily "all" power. Just make sure that you provide the return through hole for the return current (if the pair changes the layer) (obviously it is sewn near the end)

It is true, but what about safe/trusted startup?

In order to be widely adopted in commercial applications, a certain degree of trust is necessary. Are there any signs that Broadcom will work with Pi Foundation to achieve this goal?

Pi was never designed for this. I will never use it in a production environment.

Pi is not, but the Pi arithmetic module is at least touted for it. From the Pi base site:

"More than half of the 7 million Raspberry Pi devices we sell each year are used in industrial and commercial applications, from digital signage to thin clients to process automation. Many of these applications use the familiar single-board Raspberry Pi, but For users who want more compact or custom size or on-board eMMC storage, computing module products provide a way to transition from a Raspberry Pi-based prototype to a simpler mass production."

All the examples they provide have a trust/safety factor. They came up with a way to enable OEMs to use Broadcom security features, which seems reasonable.

Here, I want to know if we can build a custom driving recorder or a better Cam (ala hikvision) based on this. Given that I'm tired of selling the function and form factor...Jellybean a Poe, I found a good camera module...

Dude! -

Well, that's too fast...

"According to the data sheet, the requirements for the length of the cross-wire pair are not so strict, but the length between the two wires in the differential pair must match. Since CERN added KiCAD in 2015, it has begun to carry out differential pairs, and it is strongly recommended to use The Saturn PCB toolkit calculates the trace width for impedance control, but only for Windows.

Why recommend a canned solution solver? These guys only solve "known analytical solutions" cases, and there are countless cases. For example, Qucs comes with one, and there are billions of them on the Web. Or you can know if you need to *find* the solution.

At this time, there are many "arbitrary geometry" solvers. For example, ATLC (or MDTLC of GUI) or MMTL. For a while, Ansoft provided a free 2D field solver (Maxwell 2D), and I can still get a copy of it.

The advantage of the 2D solver is that you can figure out, for example, what is the effect of placing a shield with a through-hole fence at a certain distance for crosstalk isolation. Obviously, you can place it "away", but sometimes it needs to be closed due to spacing. You can also figure out the effect of cleaning the plane below.

I don't understand the point of this "compute module" board, because it seems that most people need to buy an I/O expander. Anyone who is proficient enough can make their own boards for this, it seems they are only a few steps away from making CPU boards.

But at least it’s old. I can imagine that someone might use a base plate to fit a dozen boards in a relatively compact enclosure... It might be more compact than a dozen processors on a board, because the CM is connected to the back The board is at right angles. But this design makes this impossible, so I don't understand at all.

Does anyone want to use this product without buying an I/O expansion board? What are the advantages compared to just releasing various conventional pi with different I/O?

"Anyone who is mature enough can make their own boards for this. It seems that they are only a few steps away from making CPU boards."

The number of layers and assembly costs. Trying to fill everything on the CM board may require at least an 8-layer board, which may be quite high quality, and then it is also assembled in 2 layers with tiny components.

The I/O expansion board is a joke. It's easy to push everything to one level, up to four levels. Even at the prototyping level, you can obtain the dust after assembly cheaply in this way. *Special** if the assembly shop starts to add the connector.

Well, don’t think it’s so closed. I and other people I know use computing modules to drive many different hardware. This is a big benefit. We can focus on our hardware and software without maintaining the entire Linux and OS. Floor. Similarly, a large number of working software is also a major factor for SMEs.

For example, we use more pins than ordinary PI or different USB hubs.

To be honest, I think the CM4 and Arduino Pro series are seeking to undertake more industrial applications. For RPi, entering a more professional circle seems to be an indispensable step-there are many people making aircraft carriers or aircraft carrier tools

The biggest advantage of this method for us to master the hidden skills of SOC is that it will not spend a lot of funds from the Pi Foundation to support it, and it will not verify all these boards with different I/O functions. But from the user's point of view, it is also very good-the power stamps are small and easy to integrate into designs of almost any shape and size. If you remove the Pi with camera channel and display channel at the same time, then people will feel that HDMI is lost, or it is not on the same side as USB.

They have completed the most difficult part of getting the system to work properly-the entire work of the computer has been done for you. All the end user needs to do is to make a breakout board for the interface they actually need-although the high-speed bus on the Pi will make it a bit more difficult compared to the old version of the Pi, it is still more trivial.

>The first category includes PCIe and USB, and in pairing, they need to be matched to a minimum of 0.15 mm. For PCIe, it is recommended to match to 0.1 mm.

The data sheet says:

> 2.4. USB 2.0 (High Speed)

The USB 2.0 interface supports signal transmission up to 480MBps. Differential correspondence is wired as a 90Ω differential pair.

PN signal should match 0.15mm ideally

The USB 2.0 specification specifically requires a maximum time lag of 100ps. Remember only 480Mbps. We are not talking about 10Gbps.

>Increase: On a real PCB, the speed of signal propagation is slower than the speed of light. For a stripline (inner layer), the speed of light in vacuum can be divided by the square root of the relative permittivity (e_r). About half the speed. This means that 100ps is more like 15mm. For the outer layer, the speed is slightly higher (about 10%).

It's like sliding 2 decimal places. The difference between 15 mm (actual need) and 0.15 mm is 2 orders of magnitude. : P

Hello, no one can open Kicad files? I tried to open it with the latest version (5.1.7) on Windows and Mac, but the same error message appeared: "KiCad cannot open this fil because it was created with a higher version than the running version.

To open it, you need to upgrade KiCad to the latest version.

Required KiCad version date (or newer version): August 29, 2020".

Yes, I do have the same problem, so it’s not just you...

You will need to open these files with the nightly version of KiCad.

As far as I know, the module does not follow any standard SOM interface standards.

E.g:

Or the older Qseven style

Why link or even not map 1-n interface standards? Like PI, there are more CSI/DSI channels than the supported range.

TBH is not as bad as yours

The support for IEEE 1588 in PHY is good, but I can't see any datasheets for this part or similar parts. Linux also does not have 1588 support for this PHY.

I see that the SYNC_IN and SYNC_OUT pins sound interesting, but there is no information on them. Can they be used to receive GPS PPS to synchronize the PHY clock?

I haven’t seen this special connector style for a long time, and that’s for good reason... The last time I saw it (around 2001?), this was the laptop I saw it. The root cause of a large number of reliability problems in

What do you mean by connector style? Because of the settings these people seem to have, there are connector elements on the side/center, so it can be used in various ways for mobile phones and industrial power tools.

If they are built the way they should be, they are basically not affected by vibration/shock and thermal fretting. I have tested this derivative product myself and got excellent results.

The four screws should be able to fix the CM well. It will not hang on the connector alone.

It's amazing. This template PCB sounds a lot like helping you lay out high-speed traces and connect to high-speed connectors.

This should be a very useful learning experience with good reference value. superior!

Does anyone know anything about Gumstix? ? ? It looks like you can build an aircraft carrier for CM4 here? (Gumstix.com/special-offer)

I still can't believe that Gumstix still exists. They are Raspberry Pi in 2002, except for ARMv5 of 200mhz, each board is 400 dollars, and there is no operator.

good question! I am also interested in this offer. However, at their "normal" prices, I am not sure if it is cheap to reduce the use of the original Pi IO board design in KiCad and try JLCPCB luck.

Makeup like me can add my shape.

Using the USB3 to SATA adapter on my Pi4B 8GB, and the Samsung 860 EVO 500GB solid state drive, I get a write speed of 390-395 MB/sec and a similar read speed... So why do all PCIe NVMe drives do the same Thing, but need additional circuitry etc.?

In fact, on the carrier board using the computing module, there are fewer circuits to directly connect the PCI Express to the NVMe module. On single board computers, they have a PCIe to USB3 controller, so USB3 makes the most sense.

Does anyone know when it will actually be sold?

Pimoroni is one of the officially recognized resellers. He said "November", but there is nothing more specific than that.

I just ordered two from Canakit and they said it will be shipped on November 9.

Thank you all, thank you very much.

Yes, I ordered mine on the same day. It was originally scheduled to ship on November 30. I just checked it, and it says "Pending" on the order. Status information sent via email, but has not yet responded.

Every few years we get a new form factor. What we really want is an S-100 BUS slot or a bunch of PC/104 cages. And due to changes in form factors, there is little cross-supplier support, and our trash cans are full of old products that cannot be inserted into anything.

exactly!

This makes me want to throw a simple pcb design with only gpio, hdmi, ethernet, sd card slot and single usb, plus a 24 to 5v converter, see if it works, it may fail, and try again Until I make it work

Hope this helps:)

> On MXL7704

Will it be "MXL7704-P4"? Customized, unavailable proprietary version?

Is this article copied from here (

) Or vice versa?

Wow! Thanks for that. We must send them a lot of lawyers.

But yes. I wrote it. You can see the neutral background of my trademark recycled paper in the image.

Has he ever answered? A neutral ";P" note was written on "His" article. Let's see if he activated it...XD

Does anyone know if there is a composite video? I can't see it in the pdf instructions, but they also did not clearly show the composite output on the previous board.

Yes it looks like 111 stitches.

"Breaking tradition is painful, and we know that some of you will fill up SO-DIMM slots in your closets, but there are good reasons."

"It is impossible to pack PCIe with dual HDMI and other high-speed peripherals into the old SO-DIMM connector"

Well, this seems to be a good reason to replace with DDR4 SO-DIMM interface, but this mezzanine is a nightmare. Yes, DDR4 SO-DIMM is sufficient for HDMI and PCIe.

Yes, I should tell NVidia that sodimm cannot be used for HDMI and PCIe like on jetson nano...

Sodimm is just a style, not a manifestation of ability. Nvidia Jetson uses MXM connectors designed from the ground up to provide appropriate impedance parameters for high-speed graphics. It is very common to use them for PCI Express or other high-speed serial interfaces. I had hoped that the Raspberry Pi Foundation could use MXM connectors or 240-pin DDR3 sodimm, but this is not the case.

Last year, I spent a lot of time designing products based on computing modules (CM3+), among which "upgradability" is one of the main selling points. I will release it for about a month. The appearance change is a bit disappointing for me...

I feel your pain! I have two custom boards made by people, but I have warned them before that if they add USB 3 or PCIe to the next module, 200-pin sodimm will not be possible to fly. I hope they can use 240-pin DDR3 sodimm, which definitely has the necessary bandwidth. But no one asked me!

Commercial adapter available

Therefore, I started to adapt my design to CM4, only to realize that they gave up the extra GPIO that CM3 had! I need these! GAAAAH! No...I am absolutely sure how to make my product work....

I didn't notice it in the article before starting to change the schematic, but the new design has 200 pins, just like the old one. Therefore, it is not a lack of nails that brings about change.

"I found this gem of a pull-up resistor on the SD card power switch." But there is no! The PCB is completed through an automated mounting process, but the SMD resistors are soldered by hand. This means that this is a solution. Someone messed up the PCB schematic but forgot to add resistance, so they were forced to handle all messed up circuit boards manually and add resistance manually.

This "jewel" will disappear in the next edition of the board.

"Found this gem" .. pfffffh....

I am going to update my custom CM3 carrier to CM4. Does anyone know what mezzanine connector this is? I have browsed the data sheet but cannot find any detailed information. I thought I would organize an Eagle file, but I'm not sure which part to add.

The article says that it is Hirose DF40C-100DS-0.4V

Some people say it may be like this: Hirose DF40C-100DS-0.4V

There is already a CM4-CM3 adapter (for a fee). However, you may also be interested in the online geppetto design application, which allows you to design/modify custom CMx carrier boards. They also help you manufacture/sell your products.

Hope this helps people make the CM4 ball rolling if they really start shipping modules. I have been looking for a module (less) Gumstix CM4 NVMe carrier board for more than a month, and wonder when/if CM4 will arrive from Canakit.

I really want to get Fritzing parts for the 100-pin connector. Does anyone know of ready-made parts that can be downloaded? I have a 3D model and Solidworks, but I don't know how to make Fritzing parts from it.

It doesn't matter, I have completed 75% of the customization part. We will check whether it is valid and whether Aisler can process the generated files. I know that Fritzing is dismissive of some people, but this is all I know in this field. I installed Eagle, but I haven't lost my way yet.

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If you plan to give up your job, you might as well take a big step forward.

Maybe most people will try this way, but [Daniel Valuch] obviously really doesn't want to go to work that day.

The idea here is simple: add some current to the resistor to heat the resistor, and put some thermochromic film on the resistor to get a pixel. The next part is not so simple: expand a single pixel into a 32 x 32 matrix.

To make each pixel square, [Daniel] chose to pair 220 ohm SMD resistors to use up to 2,048 components. The choice of using 1,024 bit shift registers made of discrete 74LVC1G175 flip-flops to drive them adds complexity. With the help of Arduino Nano and all other supporting components, there are more than 3,000 devices that may draw 50 amps. These people are stupid or unfortunate and cannot turn on every pixel at the same time. Fortunately, [Daniel] chose to simulate an analog clock here. This leads to other problems, such as handling the cooling lag of the thermochromic film when the pointer is moved, which must be handled in the software.

We have seen other thermochromic displays before, including the most recent

. This display may not be the highest resolution display currently available, but it is big, bold and slightly dangerous, which makes it a big win in our book.

1) Get a huge pet food

2) Place 1024 heating element arrays under it

3) Placed in an environment of 10°C

4) Turn on the pixels at 30C

Congratulations, you can now print bacteria on the petri dish

You can use...life to implement Conway's "Game of Life".

Interesting project, interesting scale! well-done!

If diodes are used instead of resistors, multiplexed drivers can be used.

Well, if you use matrix and multiplexing, you can make it simple. But why should it be simple? Then, you don't need 1024 triggers. There are many ways to do it, and I like simple but highly repetitive patterns. It is very pleasant to see :)

Very interesting project and well built.

The thickness of the PCB looks like a regular 1.6mm. I thought that using an ultra-thin thickness (such as 0.6mm) would greatly reduce the cooling time. Similarly, replacing the super expensive 2512 with a smaller package (0805) will also reduce thermal inertia, because you only need to raise the temperature above the threshold.

By the way, is there room temperature measurement for software current control/compensation?

What is the average power consumption of the display time?

In addition, since it seems that the main purpose is only to display time, why use an orthogonal matrix? Similarly, if there is no quadrant + dial configuration and only two different pointer lengths, it will again greatly reduce the BOM.

0805 is cheaper, but if you want the same size clock and pixels, you need more clocks and pixels, and the difference is that the price is not much. The pixels do not look good either, because black lines appear between the resistors.

The PCB is actually very thick, 3.2mm. The first is for structural reasons, but when designing, I worry that excessive heat leakage will stain the pixels, and the pixel power may be insufficient. It turns out that if you allow transient seconds, 250mW is enough. We go to see it in winter.

At 4.6V, the total power consumption is about 8A. The trigger can be reduced to below 3V by the power supply voltage, which is a good way to regulate winter/summer

Nice project! It would be fun to make a version with IR LED, so the smartphone camera can see it, but not the naked eye. Allow anyone to interact over the phone instead of dedicated Fluke.

Write down good ideas and good progress!

Does anyone know how much heat the resistor actually generates?

Quoting from the linked project page "The pixel is made of 2512 size resistors, each resistor dissipates 250mW (5V/50mA)", all of this is dissipated as heat, unless you increase the power a lot, it's like 99.5% Calories, 0.5% orange light.

I misread the title and thought it was an infrared camera clock, so it can only be read by an infrared camera. Actually more useful

Wow, my AWLAYS wants to do this! Glad to see you did it! ! !

I want to know how much power is needed to use it for the intended use case. Manually calculated from the attached photos, it seems that about 100 pixels (10% of the entire display) are lit, and the author said that greasy things can consume 250W, so I assume that the power consumption of "clock mode" is 200-250W, but I think it depends on whether the pixel needs to run at 100% heat to make the image come out.

I want to know the actual figures.

You can use heating lamps installed on the ceiling of a large building full of people and project the matrix of the heating area, so that if people want to keep warm, they tend to move them to the heated part; if they need to keep cool If you do, you can avoid them. People's ceilings and where they are willing to stand can also be used as clocks. :-) Annoying sound from a speaker matrix or a matrix of wi-fi access points without power but low power, you may have the same effect.

Chicago-Does anyone really know what time it is? (Does anyone really care?)

This is one of the coolest projects on Hackaday. I bet you can increase the resolution by cutting the thermochromic film into 32×32 small and independent square grids while reducing bleeding and input delay.

The technology is incredible and you can easily shrink it to have a nano-pixel display. You can also display the volume by adding resistors to solid blocks of transparent thermochromic material.

If you don’t have a thermochromic material, you can use lard – it is opaque and white at room temperature, it is transparent and brown when heated: D

I added some videos on YouTube

Very very cool. I have done some research on thermochromic materials. Sadly, they are made of highly toxic chemicals, have a rather limited life span, and are very sensitive to ultraviolet light. Thermal cycling will also rapidly degrade the material, which is what we need to do. Within 6 months, the display will fade dramatically.

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