Hello friends, I want to reduce the 12V power of the headlights to 3v. I want to provide a grid control powered by a CR2032 3V battery. I want to take out the battery and supply 3V directly. What is the easiest, safest and guaranteed way to perform this conversion?
First, how much current is consumed by the control? And I think it has its own business, if I remember correctly, it is called TX car. However, if it does not work, it seems that it must be the correct model compatible with the central door.
The remote control usually consumes very little current
The linear regulator LM317T has a regulator that can output 3V.
I believe you don’t even need a radiator
There are also some controls that have used 12V voltage. These controls are suitable for A23 small batteries.
Then just dial the phone directly.
However, if the only option is 3V control, then the aforementioned LM317T option is a good choice.
Remember that just supplying power to the controller will not solve your problem, you must remember the buttons you must press.
, I will introduce in detail, the control that feeds into 12v is
When the button is pressed, the pulse is continuous, I have got another control from Battery 3v, the pulse is unique and perfect.
, The idea is not to use TX cars, but to use 3V gating
When I pressed the button and continued to drive, the TX car owned by the pilot also drove the center of my gate crazy. The new control I have for Pulse is the only control. Only trigger again with a new command. I will continue to hold down the button and generate pulses through the feed.
Can you describe in detail how to establish a connection with LM317T? Would it be the best choice?
Thank you everyone, I am happy to accept more ideas and suggestions about reducing 12v to 3v, which is simpler, safer, and the best choice for me. We must also consider safety, because it is the home connection of the vehicle.
I don't know how much current the control will consume. I know it will use 1 CR2032 3V battery and the controls I will use and Intelbras XAC 4000
, I will introduce in detail, the control that feeds into 12v is
When the button is pressed, the pulse is continuous, because the other control has a 3v battery, so the pulse is unique and perfect
After posting the post, I have been thinking about whether the signal transmission is continuous.
Here, I only have a 12V control, and I also want to install one in the car, but I have realized that this is a problem.
I don't know the same is true for TX cars.
I don't know how much current the control will consume. I know it will use 1 CR2032 3V battery and the controls I will use and Intelbras XAC 4000
In this case, you don’t even need to know, it’s too little to make a difference.
Can you describe in detail how to establish a connection with LM317T? Would it be the best choice?
You have many other options, but this option is simple and cheap, and there is no risk of burning the controls.
The table lacks 3V and 330R should be used on R2.
I recommend using universal signs for assembly because the spider webs in the car are not well assembled.
Avoid contacting the LM frame with the ground of the car.
Can you describe what components I still need to buy? I will send you a photo of the components that I have purchased, because in the first message I did not say that I must purchase other components.. Can I put the 330 on R2 and R1? Sorry, I am studying, but I do not understand the knowledge you have. Sorry.
I bought 1 piece of LM317T and 2 pieces of Zener 1N4728A Zener. I bought a fan on my account. I know you didn't say anything about it.
Can I put 330 on R2 and R1?
240R, it is in the picture.
If not, 220 or 270 will work.
There is also a 100nf capacitor and another 1uF capacitor in this scheme.
We kept some circuits that were not there, but in this case, we will place them because the car installation is full of interference.
2 zenner 1N4728A Zenner I bought my account fan I know you didn’t say anything
We didn't mention it before, but Zener diodes and resistors can also work.
Only if you don't do it well, you can burn the control.
Now that you have purchased LM317, let's get started.
I know thank you for your return. Tomorrow I will buy the missing components, but after checking through the Internet, I see that R330 and R240 have some information, such as 1/4W, 2w, 4w, 8w, which one will I buy?
Another question is that there are some parts in my house. I have taken some things from you before throwing them away. I will send you a picture to see if I can have any fun.
Very grateful for your help.
I will purchase some information, such as 1/4W, 2w, 4w, 8w?
For this circuit, anyone can do it.
However, the weaker ones are cheaper.
The capacitor in the bottom photo is C1 in the figure. You will learn, because 0.1uF-100nF is the same as the number 104 that appears there.
You need to be a user to post a comment
Create a new account in our community. simple!
is there already an account? please sign in.
No registered users view this page.
Since 1996, Clube do Hardware has been one of Brazil's largest, oldest and most respected technology communities.
Even if the source is mentioned, we do not allow copying or copying of the content of our website, forums, newsletters and social networks.